Double-Breasted Shawl Collar Belted Coat
A women's knee-length, double-breasted coat with a wide shawl collar, single-welt pockets on the fronts and a tie belt. Lined, with a one-piece back cut on the fold.
When To Wear
- In autumn and early spring, over dresses, suits or knitwear.
- Belted at the waist or worn open with the belt removed.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, with waist darts visible on the back in the drawing.
Length: Knee length; 3.5 cm hem allowance on the coat and sleeves.
Collar: Shawl collar cut in two pieces (upper and under collar), topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge together with the front edges.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with eased caps, sleeve heads and shoulder pads.
Closure: Double-breasted: 2 buttonholes on the right front, 4 outer buttons and one inner button.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts; welts interfaced and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, pocket bags from lining.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, no centre back seam; back neck facing.
Waist: Separate tie belt, topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge all round.
Lining: Full lining cut to the facings, bagged to the coat and turned through an opening in the side seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, a shawl collar with a separate under collar, sleeve heads and shoulder pads, a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, welts, pocket area)
- 5 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Pocket facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
Attention: Lining pieces are cut deducting the front facing and neckline facing. All lining seam allowances are 1 cm.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing
- Back neckline facing
- Welts
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, and welts.
- Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the corners, trim the corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch along the welt 0.5 cm from the edge. Fuse fusible interfacing to the pocket placement area. Mark a line on the welt to define its finished width. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Place the welt face down on the right side of the front piece, aligning with the marked line (closer to the center). Stitch the welt. Stitch the large pocket bag to the other pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket lining to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. Topstitch the short sides of the pocket 0.5 cm from the edge of the welt.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press allowances open.
- Stitch the lower collar to the neckline. Clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armhole, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing, press allowances open.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the side seam for turning later. Stitch the upper collar. Clip and press allowances open. Stitch the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing. Press allowances towards the lining.
- Place the lining and main fabric right sides together and stitch along the front edges and collar. Secure the allowances of the upper and lower collar together. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front piece diagonally to the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Stitch the lower edge of the coat. Turn the coat right side out. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the front and collar.
- Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out. Close the opening.
- On the right front, make 2 buttonholes, sew on 4 buttons, sew on the inner button.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the allowances of the unstitched section, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt.
