Double-Breasted Shawl Collar Belted Coat
Introducing a chic made-to-measure coat pattern defined by its elegant double-breasted closure, plush shawl collar, and flattering waist-cinching tie belt.
When To Wear
This versatile coat is perfect for adding a touch of refined style to your ensemble, suitable for:
- Everyday Elegance: Elevate your daily look for work or casual outings in cooler weather.
- Transitional Seasons: An ideal outerwear piece for spring & autumn, offering warmth without bulk.
- Layered Styling: Comfortable worn over sweaters or lighter garments for adaptable fashion.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a relaxed, straight-line silhouette that can be cinched at the waist for a flattering fit.
Neckline & Collar: Features a wide, graceful shawl collar that drapes smoothly around the neck and shoulders.
Closure: Double-breasted front closure secured with prominent buttons, complemented by an internal fastening for a clean finish.
Sleeves: Classic long, set-in sleeves with a clean finish at the wrist.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets with clean, rectangular flaps integrated into the front panels.
Back: a clean, smooth back panel without a center seam, ensuring an uninterrupted drape.
Waist: Defined and accentuated by a removable tie belt, allowing for adjustable shaping.
Length: Falls to approximately mid-thigh to just above the knee, offering versatile coverage.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves techniques such as constructing a shawl collar, creating welt pockets, and working with lining and tailored details.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium to heavy-weight coat fabrics with good drape and warmth for the main garment:
- Coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
- 5 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
Attention: Lining pieces are cut deducting the front facing and neckline facing. All lining seam allowances are 1 cm.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing
- Back neckline facing
- Welts
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, and welts.
- Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the corners, trim the corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch along the welt 0.5 cm from the edge. Fuse fusible interfacing to the pocket placement area. Mark a line on the welt to define its finished width. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Place the welt face down on the right side of the front piece, aligning with the marked line (closer to the center). Stitch the welt. Stitch the large pocket bag to the other pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket lining to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. Topstitch the short sides of the pocket 0.5 cm from the edge of the welt.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press allowances open.
- Stitch the lower collar to the neckline. Clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armhole, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing, press allowances open.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the side seam for turning later. Stitch the upper collar. Clip and press allowances open. Stitch the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing. Press allowances towards the lining.
- Place the lining and main fabric right sides together and stitch along the front edges and collar. Secure the allowances of the upper and lower collar together. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front piece diagonally to the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Stitch the lower edge of the coat. Turn the coat right side out. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the front and collar.
- Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out. Close the opening.
- On the right front, make 2 buttonholes, sew on 4 buttons, sew on the inner button.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the allowances of the unstitched section, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt.
