Cowl Collar Belted Dress
A women's knee-length fitted dress with a horizontal waist seam, elbow-length set-in sleeves and a collar made of two parts: an outer lapel collar and an inner draped piece, cut from crepe-satin. Back vent and a concealed zipper in the left side seam.
When To Wear
- For the office and business meetings, with a narrow belt at the waist.
- For daytime events in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted; bodice and skirt joined by a waist seam on the front and back, shaped with darts on both.
Length: Knee length.
Collar: Upper and under collar plus a two-piece inner collar, joined along the roll line and set into the neckline; the upper collar is interfaced.
Sleeves: Set-in, elbow length, with eased caps; 2 cm hem allowance.
Closure: Concealed zipper in the left side seam between marks.
Back: Centre back seam with an interfaced vent at the hem (6 cm vent allowance).
Waist: Waist seam pressed down; the dress is meant to be worn with a belt, which is not part of the cutting list.
Finishing: Seams serged; dress and sleeve hems blind-stitched with a 2 cm allowance.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A layered collar assembled along the roll line, a lapped back vent, a concealed zipper in the side seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight suiting or dress fabrics in natural or blended fibres; crepe-satin for the collar.
Additional Supplies
- Crepe-satin for the collar
- Concealed zipper
- Fusible interfacing (upper collar, vent)
- Belt (worn with the dress)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper back - 2 pieces
- Lower back - 2 pieces
- Upper front – 1 piece
- Lower front - 1 piece
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- From crepe satin:
- Under collar — 1 piece
- Upper collar — 1 piece
- Cowl collar — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the upper collar with fusible interlining.
- Stitch darts on back pieces. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch upper and lower back parts. Press seam downwards and serge.
- On the left lower back, along the vertical slit edge, trim 5 cm. On both lower back pieces, interface the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left along the slit fold line, on the right, press only the right slit allowance (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper slit edge. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Serge the slit allowances. Stitch the center back edge up to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right. Press center seam allowances open, press slit allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
- Stitch darts on front pieces. Press darts towards the center front. Stitch upper and lower front parts. Press seam downwards and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams and the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Serge the left side seam separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the upper mark and from the lower mark to the hem. Insert the zipper between the marks.
- Fold upper and under collar right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and the lapel line. Clip the seam near mark "o". Turn collar right side out and press. Fold cowl collar pieces right sides together, stitch along the outer edge and the lapel. Clip the seam near the lapel mark, turn cowl collar right side out and press. Attach upper and under collar separately to the cowl collar along the lapel line. Press seams open. Turn finished collar right side out and press. Stitch the outer edge of the collar to the neckline, press seam towards the collar. Turn under the open inner edge of the collar and topstitch into the collar attachment seam. Secure collar and cowl collar along the lapel line.
- Stitch sleeve seam. Press seam and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches and easing the cap. Press seam and serge.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress and sleeve hem, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. The dress is recommended to be worn with a belt.
