Fitted Cropped Jacket with Shaped Lapels
A women's cropped, fitted jacket with princess seams front and back, wide lapels with a notched collar, a three-button front and a separate band at the hem. Fully lined, with cuffs on the long sleeves.
When To Wear
- Over dresses and high-waisted skirts or trousers: the jacket ends at the waist.
- As a light jacket for the office in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams on the front and back; the seams are pressed towards the centre and topstitched 0.9 cm from the seam.
Length: Cropped, ending at the waist with a band sewn to the lower edge.
Collar: Two-piece notched collar (upper and under collar) with wide lapels; the lapel roll line is stayed with a 1 cm strip of interfacing.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with eased caps and shoulder pads, finished with folded cuffs.
Front: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front; front facings cut separately.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; back neck facing.
Waist: The hem band is cut in front and back sections, sewn in pairs and attached to both the jacket and the lining.
Finishing: Front edges, collar and lower edge topstitched 1 cm from the edge.
Lining: Full lining with lining sleeves; the jacket is turned through an opening in the right sleeve lining seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Notched collar set between jacket and facings, lapel stay tape, eased set-in sleeves with shoulder pads, a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Soft wool or wool-blend fabrics, such as soft gabardine.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, facings, back neck facing, hem band, cuffs, upper collar)
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: All seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Lower collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back hem band — 2 pieces
- Front hem band — 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back hem band — 1 piece
- Front hem band — 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Upper collar – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. Along the lapel roll line on the front, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from interfacing).
- Stitch and press panel seams on the front and back towards the center. Topstitch 0.9 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the back and front hem bands in pairs. Press seams open. Attach the interfaced hem band pieces to the jacket. Press seams open.
- Stitch and press open the sleeve seam. Stitch cuffs into a loop. Press seam open. Turn cuffs right side out, press in half lengthwise, and attach the outer edge to the bottom of the sleeve. Press seam open.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads.
- Place upper collar with lower collar, right sides together, and stitch. Trim seams at corners, turn right side out, shape, and press the collar.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right sleeve seam.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the hem band pieces to the lower edge of the lining. Press seam towards the hem band.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch the front edge. Stitch from the front upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams of the upper lapel corners.
- Attach the lower collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Stitch the bottom edge of the garment. Turn the jacket right side out, shape the seams, and press. Topstitch along the hem band attachment seam. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge along the front edge, collar, and lower edge of the jacket.
- Attach the lining to the inner edge of the cuff. Press seam towards the cuff. Turn the jacket through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed. Topstitch along the cuff attachment seam.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
