Fitted Cropped Jacket with Shaped Lapels
Discover a women's sewing pattern for a chic fitted cropped jacket, featuring shaped lapels and shaping princess seams for a tailored silhouette.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is perfect for adding a touch of elegance and structure to various outfits, making it ideal for:
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Business Casual Settings: a polished layer over blouses or dresses for office environments.
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Everyday Style: Elevate casual ensembles with its clean lines and fitted design.
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Transitional Weather: Offers light warmth and refined style for spring and autumn outings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, close-fitting silhouette is achieved through sophisticated princess seams on both the front and back panels.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic collar, creating a sharp and professional neckline and shaped lapels.
Closure: a single-breasted front with a three-button closure offers a neat and secure finish.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves are completed with cuffs, adding a refined detail.
Back: Designed with princess seams and a distinct waistband panel to enhance the fitted shape.
Length: Cropped, ending around the natural waistline, which pairs well with high-waisted bottoms.
Waistband: a structured waistband panel defines the bottom edge of the jacket, providing a clean finish.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires familiarity with tailoring techniques such as setting in sleeves with easing, constructing a notched lapel collar, working with princess seams, and assembling a full lining with shoulder pads.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose fabrics that offer a soft drape yet hold structure for a refined finish:
- Soft wool fabrics
- Semi-wool fabrics
- Soft gabardine
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 3 buttons
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: All seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Lower collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back waist tie — 2 pieces
- Front waist tie — 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back waist tie — 1 piece
- Front waist tie — 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Upper collar – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. Along the lapel roll line on the front, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from interfacing).
- Stitch and press relief seams on the front and back towards the center. Topstitch 0.9 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the back and front waist ties in pairs. Press seams open. Attach the interfaced waist tie pieces to the jacket. Press seams open.
- Stitch and press open the sleeve seam. Stitch cuffs into a loop. Press seam open. Turn cuffs right side out, press in half lengthwise, and attach the outer edge to the bottom of the sleeve. Press seam open.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads.
- Place upper collar with lower collar, right sides together, and stitch. Trim seams at corners, turn right side out, shape, and press the collar.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right sleeve seam.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the waist tie pieces to the lower edge of the lining. Press seam towards the waist tie.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch the front edge. Stitch from the front upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams of the upper lapel corners.
- Attach the lower collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Stitch the bottom edge of the garment. Turn the jacket right side out, shape the seams, and press. Topstitch along the waist tie attachment seam. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge along the front edge, collar, and lower edge of the jacket.
- Attach the lining to the inner edge of the cuff. Press seam towards the cuff. Turn the jacket through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed. Topstitch along the cuff attachment seam.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
