Pinafore with Patch Pockets

Pinafore with Patch Pockets

A women's sleeveless wrap-front pinafore dress of mid-calf length, with a V-neck crossover bodice shaped by princess seams, a waistband and a gathered skirt. Two patch pockets on the skirt; the wrap fastens at the waistband with buttons.

When To Wear

• Over a blouse, a shirt or a fine-knit top in autumn, winter and spring.
• On its own in warm weather.
• For everyday wear and the office.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice, gathered skirt flaring from the waistband.

Length: Below the knee.

Neckline: V-neck formed by the overlapping fronts, finished with interfaced neckline facings; round neckline at the back.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes bound with a folded bias strip turned to the inside and topstitched.

Closure: Wrap front: a buttonhole and button join the fronts at the waistband, an inner button holds the under-layer, and a second button on the waistband is decorative. The skirt front edges have cut-on facings.

Pockets: Two patch pockets on the skirt, with a 3 cm turned and topstitched upper edge.

Back: Bodice with princess seams and a centre back panel cut on the fold; separate back waistband; gathered skirt cut in one piece on the fold.

Waist: Waistband sewn between bodice and skirt, front waistband in two pieces.

Level Of Difficulty

Beginner. Princess seams, a faced neckline, bias-bound armholes, gathering, patch pockets and buttonholes; no zipper, collar or sleeves.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (neckline facings)
• 2 buttons
• 1 inner (hidden) button
• Bias binding for the armholes, if not cut from the main fabric

Cutter’s Must

From main fabric:

1. Center back – 1 piece on fold
2. Side back – 2 pieces
3. Back waistband – 1 piece
4. Lower back – 1 piece on fold
5. Center front – 2 pieces
6. Side front – 2 pieces
7. Front waistband – 2 pieces
8. Lower front – 2 pieces
9. Pocket – 2 pieces
10. Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
11. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

From fusible interfacing:

1. Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
2. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Important Information

First of all, print the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width may be from 90 cm to 150 cm) in order to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces).

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches – they must match.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the shaped seams of the upper back, press seam allowances toward the center, finish.
3. Stitch the shaped seams of the upper front, press seam allowances toward the center and finish.
4. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances toward the back and finish.
5. Stitch shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Finish the outer edge. Place the facing and the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances on curves, turn the pieces right side out, straighten, press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams.
6. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias strip 4 cm wide and length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip lengthwise in the middle with the right side outward and press. Place the strip to the armhole edge from the right side and stitch, fold the strip to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece.
7. Stitch side seams of the upper part, press seam allowances toward the back and finish.
8. Along the upper edge of the lower back, sew a line with a loose upper thread and gather. Stitch the waistband to the lower back, press seam allowances upward, finish.
9. Along the upper edge of the lower front, sew a line with a loose upper thread and gather. Stitch the waistband to the lower front, press seam allowances upward, finish.
10. Stitch side seams of the lower part, press seam allowances toward the back and finish.
11. Finish the seam allowance of the upper edge of the pocket, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Finish the side and lower edges of the pocket, press to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to markings on the lower part and topstitch.
12. Finish the edge of the integrated facing of the lower front. Stitch the upper and lower parts of the garment, enclosing the upper front with the integrated facing, press seam allowances toward the waistband and finish. Turn the pieces right side out, straighten, press.
13. Finish the lower edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
14. On the right front, make a buttonhole; on the left front, sew a button. Make a buttonhole on the left front, sew the inner button. Sew the decorative button.