Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: well-draping dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 11 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Middle back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part - 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Middle front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Front flounce – 2 pieces
- Upper flounce – 2 pieces
- Middle flounce - 2 pieces
- Lower flounce – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Placket - 2 pieces
Attention! The upper, middle, and lower flounce pieces are cut without patterns. The length of the flounces is indicated on the front piece.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Cut the upper, middle, and lower flounces. The length is indicated on the middle front pattern piece. Width 6 cm.
- Stitch the center edges of the upper back parts. Finish seam allowances and press towards the left side.
- Stitch the shoulder edges of the center back part and the center front part. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the shoulder edge of the side parts. Finish seam allowance and press towards the back.
- Finish the outer seam allowance of the front flounce, fold under, and topstitch. Alternatively, the edges can be finished with bias binding or a French seam. For this, the outer seam allowance must be trimmed.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back simultaneously, inserting the flounce into the seam. Finish seam allowance and press towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder edges of the back and front neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Finish the outer edge. Place the facings right sides together with the garment and stitch the neckline. Clip seam allowances, turn facings to the wrong side, and press seams. Understitch the facing to the shoulder seams.
- Cut (if not ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip seam allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the side edges of the upper parts, press seam allowances towards the back and finish.
- Stitch the side edges of the middle and lower parts of the front and back. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the center edge of the flounces. Finish seam allowances and press towards the left side. Finish the outer seam allowances of the flounces, fold under, and topstitch. Alternatively, the edges can be finished with bias binding or a French seam. For this, the outer seam allowance must be trimmed.
- Along the upper edge of the flounces, sew a gathering stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the middle part of the dress to the upper part, inserting the upper flounce. Finish seam allowances and press upwards. Stitch the middle and lower parts of the dress, inserting the middle flounce. Finish seam allowances and press upwards. Attach the lower flounce to the dress. Finish seam allowances and press upwards.
- Finish the inner edges of the placket. Attach the outer side of the placket to the garment edge. Press seam allowances towards the placket. Turn the placket to the right side and stitch the upper and lower corners. Clip seam allowances, turn the placket to the wrong side, and topstitch in the attachment seam.
- Sew on buttons and make buttonholes.
