Dress with Cuffed Sleeves and Tiered Flounces

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for back and front flounces – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Back insert – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower back flounce – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper back flounce – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front insert – 1 piece
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Lower front flounce – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper front flounce – 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 4 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the upper back pieces, press seam allowances towards the center of the pieces. Attach the back insert to the upper back part, press seam allowances towards the insert and overcast.
3. Along the upper edge of the lower back part, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower back part to the back insert, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
5. Along the lower edge of the upper front part, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the front insert to the upper front part, press seam allowances towards the insert and overcast.
6. Along the upper edge of the lower front part, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower front part to the front insert, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
7. Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
8. Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Topstitch the facing to the garment, 1 cm from the outer edge of the facing.
9. Stitch side edges of upper and lower back and front flounces. Press seam allowances open, overcast. Place the upper flounce on the lower flounce, wrong side to right side, and secure along the upper edge. Attach the flounces to the main garment, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
10. Along the sleeve cap and lower sleeve edge, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Overcast sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
11. Place cuff pieces right sides together and stitch side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn pieces right side out, straighten, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
12. Overcast the lower edges of the flounces, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
13. Make buttonholes on the cuffs, sew on buttons.