Tailored Coat with Wide Collar

Name: Tailored Coat with Wide Collar
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2901
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2901

A women's knee-length lined coat with front princess seams, a separating zipper down the centre front and wide lapels that continue into the collar at the back neck. The lapels are caught into the princess seams and held together by a decorative clasp; slanted zipper pockets sit in the side fronts. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: coat fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Tailored Coat with Wide Collar

When To Wear

As an outer layer in autumn and early spring.
Over dresses, or over trousers and knitwear, for the office and town.
Worn with the lapels clasped or open.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by front princess seams and back darts.

Length: About knee length.

Collar: Wide lapels, each joined from two halves with a centre seam, stitched into the front princess seams and the front and back necklines; edges topstitched 3 cm from the edge.

Sleeves: Long, one-piece, set-in, with fused hem allowances.

Closure: Separating zipper set between the coat and the front facings, topstitched 1 cm from the teeth; a decorative clasp on the lapels.

Pockets: Slanted zipper pockets in the side fronts, with pocket bags and a facing (pocket guard) on the large bag.

Back: Centre back seam and darts.

Finishing: Shoulder pads; 3 cm hem allowances on the coat and sleeves.

Lining: Full lining bagged to the facings and hems; the coat is turned through an opening in the left sleeve lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Zipper pockets set into slashed openings, a separating zipper between coat and facing, lapels inserted into princess seams, and a bagged full lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Coat fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, lapels, pocket openings, sleeve hems)
1 separating zipper
2 zippers for the pockets
Decorative clasp
Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for coat bottom and sleeve bottom - 3.0 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts).

From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lapel – 4 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Pocket guard – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
From fusible interlining:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Lapel – 2 pieces

Back lining pieces are cut by subtracting the back neckline facing pieces.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. Fuse the area under the pocket opening. Fuse the sleeve hem allowance.
Stitch darts on back pieces. Press depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open.
Topstitch the pocket guard to the large pocket bag. Mark the pocket placement on the front. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts (on the side front piece). Turn the pocket allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Stitch the pocket bags right sides to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Place the zipper under the pocket opening edges so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper, sewing from the right side and folding back the pocket bags. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags, catching the corners.
Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances open.
Stitch the center seams of the lapels. Press seam allowances open. Fold lapels right sides together and stitch the outer edges of the lapels and the collar stand in one seam. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 3 cm from the edge.
Stitch the princess seams of the front, inserting the lapel and simultaneously stitching it into the front neckline (small section between notches) and the back neckline. Clip seam allowances at notch 2, press princess seam allowances open, press neckline allowances.
Stitch the sleeve seam. Press seam allowance open. Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Press seam allowances. Attach shoulder pads.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Place the facing and front facing on the main garment right side down and stitch the neckline and front edges, inserting the zipper. Clip seam allowances at curves.
Stitch seams on lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left sleeve seam for turning. Stitch lining to front facings, neckline facing, bottom of garment, and sleeve bottom. Turn the coat right side out, close the technical opening.
Topstitch along the zipper 1 cm from the edge of the teeth.
Attach the decorative fastener to the lapels.