Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 button; 1 inner button; shoulder pads. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Upper right facing part – 1 piece
- Lower right facing part – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar - 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Upper right facing part – 1 piece
- Lower right facing part – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. Along the lapel fold line on the front piece, apply a 1 cm wide grainline strip (from fusible interfacing).
- Stitch the darts on the back pieces, press the dart intakes towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and overcast. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and overcast.
- Stitch the darts on the front pieces, press the dart intakes towards the center. Stitch the left upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and overcast. Stitch the right upper and lower front parts from the edge of the front opening to the buttonhole mark and from the buttonhole mark to the side seam. Press allowances open, overcast.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch the upper and lower parts of the right facing from the edge of the front opening to the buttonhole mark and from the buttonhole mark to the inner edge, press allowances open. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and facings. Overcast the outer edge.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front opening and bottom. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front opening corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front opening: in the buttoning area – onto the facing, in the lapel area – onto the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front openings right side out, shape the seams. Secure the allowances of the front piece and facings, forming a buttonhole.
- Stitch the undercollar into the garment neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline edge of the back facing and facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances and overcast. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances and overcast.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap, press allowances and overcast. Insert shoulder pads.
- Overcast the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Sew on the button corresponding to the buttonhole. On the left front piece, overcast the inner buttonhole, sew on the inner button.
