Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: Coat fabrics made of artificial or natural fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment and sleeve – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining back pieces are cut subtracting the back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces. Fuse the one-piece pocket allowance.
- Stitch the pocket lining to the upper and lower front parts. Press allowances downwards and overcast. Fold the front pieces right sides together and stitch from the edge to the pocket opening mark and from the pocket opening mark to the side seam. Stitch the pocket bags.
- Stitch shoulder seams. Press allowances open.
- Stitch sleeves to armholes. Press allowances open. Stitch side seams simultaneously with sleeve seams. Press allowances towards the back.
- Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Overcast the outer edge. Fold the front facings with the main garment right sides together and stitch the front edge, neckline, and bottom edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn front facings with facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
- Stitch lining pieces similarly to the main garment pieces, leaving an opening in the left sleeve seam. Stitch lining to the facing and front facing. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams.
- Mark and press the garment hem. Stitch the garment hem and sleeve hem with lining. Stitch the technical opening closed. To prevent the front edges from separating when walking, hooks can be inserted into the front edges (before step 5).
