Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: soft dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower side back part - 2 pieces
- Lower center back part - 2 pieces
- Upper center front part - 1 piece
- Upper side front part - 2 pieces
- Lower side front part - 2 pieces
- Lower center front part – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper back part, press allowances towards the center. Stitch relief seams of the lower back part, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center seam from the zipper mark to the lower edge, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch relief edges of the upper front part, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch relief seams of the lower front part, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch side and shoulder edges, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch shoulder and side edges of back and front facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place facing and garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn facings to the wrong side, straighten and press. Secure to armhole edges and zipper tape.
- Serge the lower edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
