Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; decorative button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom — 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part - 1 piece with fold
- Front neckline facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front neckline facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces together, press allowances downwards, serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the waist dart on the upper front pieces, press allowance towards the center. Fold and stitch the upper pleat along the marked line. Clip the allowance at the corner, direct the pleat depth downwards.
- Serge the outer edge of the front neckline facings. Place the facing piece with the main garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge and the extension up to the center edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the piece right side out, straighten, press.
- Place the upper front pieces right sides together, folding back the facings and aligning the center seam. Stitch the center seam of the upper front, simultaneously with the center seam of the facing, press allowances open and serge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, secure to the garment's center seam.
- Clip darts on the lower front piece up to the pleat. Fold and secure the pleats, with depths directed upwards. Stitch darts, serge, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces together, press allowances upwards, serge.
- Serge the outer edge of the back neckline facings. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Start or end the stitching exactly at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip allowances at curves.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front piece between the back and the back facing, press allowances towards the back and serge. Turn the facings to the wrong side and press. Secure to the zipper tape.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the side seams of the garment, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew the decorative button according to the marking, securing the right and left upper front pieces.
