Fitted Dress with Stand Collar

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; a concealed zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress and sleeve bottom — 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Collar stand - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the darts on the back pieces. Press the dart allowances towards the center.
3. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the upper mark and from the zipper mark to the bottom, press the seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
4. Stitch the darts on the front pieces. Press the bust dart allowances upwards, and the waist dart allowances towards the center.
5. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias strip 4 cm wide and 90-100 cm long. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Fold the long raw edges inwards and press. Stitch a securing line. Cut the cord into two equal parts.
6. Serge the outer edge of the front neckline. Place the front neckline facing and the front piece right sides together and stitch the neckline, inserting the decorative cord. Clip the seam allowances at curves and corners, turn the pieces right side out, smooth, and press. Stitch a topstitching/securing line along the neckline. Secure the seam allowances of the upper neckline and facing. Then treat as one piece.
7. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the top and side edges, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the marked attachment line. Clip the seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the collar stand right side out and press.
9. Place the outer collar stand with the garment right sides together and attach to the front and back, matching the marks, press the seam allowances towards the collar stand. Turn under the raw edges of the inner collar stand to the wrong side and topstitch into the seam of the outer collar stand attachment.
10. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
11. Stitch the sleeve seam, serge the allowances and press towards the back. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Serge the allowances and press.
12. Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.