Straight Peplum Blouse With Cuffed Sleeves
A women's hip-length blouse cut in two fabrics: a blouse fabric for the upper bodice, sleeves, collar and cuffs, and a suiting fabric for the lower bodice and peplum. It has a shirt collar on a stand, a buttoned front with cut-on facings, flap pockets with double welts and long sleeves gathered into buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear
- At the office in autumn and spring, with straight trousers or a pencil skirt.
- Under a coat on cool days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist with darts on the front and back, with a straight peplum below.
Length: Hip length; the front peplum has rounded front corners.
Collar: Shirt collar on a separate stand, edge-stitched around the outer edge.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a slit in the seam, gathered into interfaced cuffs that close with a button.
Front: Curved crosswise seam above the bust separating the blouse fabric from the suiting; cut-on facings, topstitched along the front edge; buttonholes on the right front.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets with flaps on the lower front, pocket bags in lining fabric.
Back: Curved crosswise seam matching the front, a centre back seam, back darts and a one-piece back peplum.
Finishing: Peplum lower edge finished with a facing; back hem turned under 2 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Double-welt pockets with flaps, a collar on a stand, cuffs with sleeve slits, a peplum faced at the shaped front edge and joining two different fabrics along curved seams.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse and suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres: blouse fabric for the upper part, sleeves and collar, suiting for the lower part and peplum.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (collar, collar stand, cuffs, pocket welts, flaps, front facings)
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: All seam allowances – 1.0 cm. Hem allowance for the back bottom edge – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric 1:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- From main fabric:
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Front peplum - 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Back peplum – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar - 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 4 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the details and the integrated facing on the upper and lower front parts with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts on the back piece, trim the depth to 1 cm, press towards the center, and overlock.
- Stitch the center back seams of the upper and lower back. Overlock the seam allowances and press to the left. Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Overlock the seam allowances and press downwards. Attach the back peplum to the back. Overlock the seam allowances and press upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold the pocket frame in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facing parallel to the fold of the facing for attaching it. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attaching it parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the width of the flap along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facings. Attach the pocket lining to the flap. Attach the facings to the front. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (the stitching should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket facing. Attach the lower pocket lining into the seam of the lower facing attachment, trim and stitch the pocket lining.
- Stitch the darts on the front pieces, trim the depth to 1 cm, press towards the center, and overlock. Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Overlock the seam allowances and press upwards.
- Overlock the outer edge of the bottom facing. Fold the front peplum with the bottom facing right sides together and stitch the lower shaped edge. Clip the seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, and press.
- Overlock the outer allowance of the integrated front placket. Attach the front peplum to the upper of the garment, wrapping the seam with the integrated front facing. Press the seam allowances upwards, overlock. Turn the facing to the wrong side. Stitch a decorative-securing stitch along the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and the outer edge. Trim the seam allowances, turn the collar to the right side, straighten, and press. Stitch a decorative stitch along the contour. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch, inserting the collar. The stitching should start and end precisely at the marked line for attaching the collar stand to the neckline. Trim the seam allowances, turn the collar stand to the right side, and press. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold the allowance of the inner collar stand inwards, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Overlock the bottom edges of the back. Stitch the side seams, wrapping the seam with the back allowance. Overlock the seam allowances and press towards the back. Topstitch the back bottom hem allowance.
- Overlock the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press the seam allowances open. Stitch a securing stitch along the slit 0.3 cm from the edge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the seam allowances and overlock. Along the bottom edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather.
- Fold the cuff piece in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitch the side edges. The stitching should start and end precisely at the marked line for attaching the cuff. Turn the piece to the right side, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards, and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
- Make the buttonholes on the right front. Sew on buttons on the left front. Make the buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.
