Fitted Princess Seam Dress with Decorative Buttons

Fitted Princess Seam Dress with Decorative Buttons

A sleeveless, fitted women's sheath dress of knee length, with armhole princess seams front and back, an asymmetric mock-wrap front with a V-neckline and two decorative buttons, and a concealed zipper at the centre back.

When To Wear

• At the office, on its own in warm weather or over a fine blouse or under a jacket in cooler months.
• For daytime events and dinners.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes on the front and back.

Length: Knee length.

Neckline: Deep V on the front formed by the overlapping fronts; round back neckline.

Front: Separate right and left centre fronts, each with its own interfaced facing. The right front laps over the left along a diagonal edge and is topstitched to it from the neckline to a lower mark; below the mark the edge is left free down to the hem. Neckline and right front edge topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge.

Closure: Concealed zipper in the centre back seam. The two buttons on the right front are decorative.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with a 4 cm bias strip folded in half and turned to the inside.

Back: Centre back seam and two princess seams; interfaced back neck facings secured to the zipper tape.

Finishing: 2 cm hem turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, an asymmetric faced front lapped and topstitched in place, a concealed zipper with facings, and bias-bound armholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (back neck facings, right and left front facings)
• Concealed zipper
• 2 buttons
• Bias tape (or bias strips cut from the dress fabric)

Cutter’s Must

From main fabric:

1. Back center – 2 pieces
2. Back side – 2 pieces
3. Right front center – 1 piece
4. Left front center – 1 piece
5. Front side – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
7. Right front facing – 1 piece
8. Left front facing – 1 piece

From fusible interfacing:

1. Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
2. Right front facing – 1 piece
3. Left front facing – 1 piece

Important Information

Before starting, print the paper pattern pieces and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width may range from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine the required amount of material. Do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, pay attention to the notches — they must match.

Note: Markings on the pattern pieces are made on the right side.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the required pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the princess seams on the back pieces. Press seam allowances toward the center and finish the edges.
3. Finish the center edges of the back separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem. Press seam allowances open and insert the invisible zipper.
4. Finish the outer edge of the left front center panel. Attach the left front center panel to the side panel. Clip seam allowances at the lower mark, finish edges, and press: toward the center in the upper part and toward the side seam in the lower part. Topstitch along the fold at 0.1 cm. Stitch the princess seam on the right front panel, press seam allowances toward the center, and finish.
5. Finish the outer edge of the left front facing. Place the facing and front piece right sides together and stitch along the neckline. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, and secure it to the main piece along the shoulder and lower edges. Topstitch along the neckline at 0.1 cm.
6. Finish the outer edge of the right front facing. Place the facing and front piece right sides together and stitch along the neckline and front edge. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, and secure it to the main piece along the shoulder and lower edges. Topstitch along the neckline and front edge at 0.1 cm.
7. Overlap the right front over the left front, aligning the center lines. Attach the left front to the inner side of the right facing between the marked points and press seam allowances. Topstitch the right front onto the left front from the neckline to the lower mark.
8. Finish the outer edges of the back neckline facings. Place the facing and garment right sides together and stitch along the neckline. Start and finish stitching exactly at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip seam allowances along curves.
9. Stitch shoulder seams, placing the front piece between the back and the back facing. Press seam allowances toward the back and finish. Turn facings to the wrong side and press. Secure to the zipper tape.
10. Cut (if not pre-made) bias tape 4 cm wide and length equal to the armhole circumference plus 5 cm. Fold the bias tape lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the tape along the armhole edge on the right side and stitch. Clip seam allowances, turn the tape to the wrong side, and topstitch along the fold onto the garment. Press the seam.
11. Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances toward the back and finish.
12. Finish the hem allowance, press to the wrong side, and stitch.
13. Sew decorative buttons on the right front according to the markings.