Hooded Raincoat Jacket with Zipper Pockets
A women's hip-length lined jacket in raincoat fabric, with a separating zipper at the front, a three-panel hood with a drawcord, a topstitched front yoke and vertical zipped pockets.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn in wind and light rain, over a T-shirt or a light sweater.
- For walks and travel, with jeans or trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose fit with dropped shoulders.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Hood made of two side pieces and a centre panel, lined, with an interfaced hood facing. The edge is stitched to form a casing; a cord runs through two eyelets at the front.
Sleeves: Long one-piece sleeves set into a dropped armhole, with lined hems.
Closure: Separating zipper stitched between the fronts and the interfaced front facings, edge topstitched 0.5–0.7 cm from the edge.
Front: Front yoke across the chest, seam pressed up and topstitched 0.5–0.7 cm from the seam.
Pockets: Vertical zipped pockets cut into the fronts, with the zipper teeth showing in the opening and a large and a small lining pocket bag behind.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with no centre back seam.
Finishing: Hem topstitched 2 cm from the edge.
Lining: Full lining of the body, sleeves and hood, attached to the facings and turned through an opening in the left side seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Cut-in zipped pockets, a separating zipper set between the jacket and the facings, a lined three-panel hood with a drawcord casing and eyelets, and bagging a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabrics from natural or blended fibres, or faux leather.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, hood facing)
- Separating zipper for the front
- 2 non-separating zippers for the pockets
- Decorative cord
- 2 eyelets
- 2 cord stoppers
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Hood Facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- Hood Facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood Lining – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Large Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Small Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
The back lining piece is cut according to the main pattern, subtracting the width of the back neck facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the details with fusible interfacing.
- Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Cut the opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the marking, make diagonal cuts. Turn the allowances to the wrong side through the resulting opening, straighten the edges. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and stitch. Stitch the lining right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Stitch the edges of the lining.
- Stitch the front yoke to the front. Press the allowances upwards. Topstitch 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeves to the garment, press the allowances towards the sleeve. Stitch the side seams, simultaneously with the sleeve seams, press the allowances towards the back.
- Stitch the side parts of the hood to the center, press the allowances towards the center. Install eyelets on the hood.
- Stitch the hood into the neckline, press the allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neck facing, press the allowances open. Stitch the hood pieces and center from the lining fabric, press the allowances towards the center. Stitch the facing to the hood lining, press the allowances towards the facing. Stitch the hood into the neckline of the front facings, press the allowances open.
- Place the front facings with the hood onto the main garment right sides together and stitch the edge of the front opening and hood, inserting the separating zipper. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the front facings to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure the hood insertion allowances together. Along the front opening, topstitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge. Topstitch along the hood, forming a casing.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Stitch the lining to the facing and front facings, to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeve through the technical opening, press the allowances. Close the opening. Topstitch along the bottom of the garment 2 cm from the edge.
- Thread the cord through the casing, secure the cord stoppers.
