Fitted Tweed Pinafore Dress

Pinafore Dress with Pleated Skirt

A fitted, above-knee women's pinafore dress with princess seams front and back, a dropped lower band set with inverted pleats, a scoop front neckline with straps, and a concealed zipper at the centre back.

When To Wear

• Over a blouse, turtleneck or fine sweater in autumn and winter.
• With tights and boots or loafers for the office or for daytime wear.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through the body, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.

Length: Above the knee, with a horizontal seam at the hip joining the upper part to a deep lower band.

Neckline: Scoop neckline on the front; straight upper edge on the back. Neckline, back upper edge and armholes finished with interfaced facings.

Front: Centre front cut on the fold, with six decorative buttons in two rows of three.

Closure: Concealed zipper in the centre back seam.

Back: Centre back seam and two princess seams. The straps are sewn into the front shoulders and stitched to the inside of the back after the length is adjusted on the wearer.

Skirt: Lower front and lower back each cut on the fold, with inverted pleats folded and secured before they are joined to the upper part.

Finishing: 2 cm hem turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, inverted pleats, a concealed zipper, an all-in-one facing for the neckline and armholes, and straps fitted on the body.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (back facings, front facing)
• Concealed zipper
• 6 buttons

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Center Front – 1 piece on fold
4. Side Front – 2 pieces
5. Lower Back – 1 piece on fold
6. Lower Front – 1 piece on fold
7. Back Facing – 2 pieces
8. Front Facing – 1 piece
9. Strap – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

• Back Facing – 2 pieces
• Front Facing – 1 piece

Important Notes

• Print and arrange pattern pieces before cutting according to fabric width (90–150 cm).
• Ensure grainline alignment and consider symmetrical pieces.
• Carefully match notches during sewing for accurate assembly.
• All markings are placed on the right side of fabric.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the facing pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back pieces. Press seam allowances toward the center and finish the edges.
3. Finish the center edges of the back separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem. Press seam allowances open and insert the invisible zipper.
4. Fold and secure the inverted pleats on the Lower Back. Join the upper back to the Lower Back. Press seam allowances downward and finish.
5. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Front and Side Fronts. Press seam allowances toward the center and finish.
6. Fold and secure the inverted pleats on the Lower Front. Join the upper front to the Lower Front. Press seam allowances upward and finish.
7. Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances toward the back and finish.
8. Stitch the side seams of the Front Facing and Back Facings and press seam allowances open. Finish the lower edge. Place the facing and garment right sides together and stitch along the front neckline, back upper edge, and armholes, leaving the shoulder seam of the front unstitched. Clip seam allowances along curves, turn facings to the wrong side, and press. Secure to side seams and zipper tape.
9. Fold each Strap lengthwise with right sides together and stitch along the long edge. Turn right side out, straighten, and press. Turn the shoulder seam allowances of the front and facing inward, insert the Strap into the opening, and topstitch.
10. Finish the hem allowance, press to the wrong side, and stitch.
11. Try on the dress and adjust the strap length. Finish the ends of the Straps and secure them to the back.
12. Sew decorative buttons on the front.