Leather Moto Jacket with Zippers
A close-fitting, hip-length women's biker jacket in leather or faux leather, with an off-centre separating zipper, a stand collar, front and back yokes, zipped pockets in the front seams and sleeves pieced with inset panels. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over T-shirts, shirts and fine knits.
- With jeans, slim trousers or a dress for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, topstitched all round, set between the jacket and the facings.
Closure: Asymmetric separating zipper set into the seam between the left centre front and side front and into the right front edge, with an extra line of topstitching 0.5 cm from the zipper. Two decorative snaps on the upper front.
Front: Separate right and left centre fronts, side fronts and front side panels; front yokes across the shoulders. All seams topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam line.
Pockets: Vertical zipped pockets in the seam between the side front and the front side panel, with the zipper teeth visible, lining pocket bags and a self-fabric underlay on the larger bag.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves; the upper sleeve is pieced with two inset panels at the elbow. A slit in the elbow seam is closed by a cuff with an extension, fastened with a snap.
Back: Centre back seam, side back panels and a back yoke. Princess seams and centre back seam pressed open and topstitched on both sides at 0.2 cm.
Finishing: 3 cm hem allowances on the back and front side pieces, topstitched along the hem; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining, including the sleeves, attached to the facings and to the hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Many panels topstitched in leather, an asymmetric separating zipper, zipped seam pockets, a stand collar between the jacket and facings, a sleeve slit with cuff, and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux or natural leather.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- 1 separating zipper (approximate length marked on the front pattern piece)
- 2 zippers for the pockets
- 2 snaps (cuffs)
- 2 decorative snaps
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowances for the back, Front Side and Side Front pieces – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Right Front – 1 piece
- Center Left Front – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Front Side – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Inset – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve Inset – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Right Center Front Facing – 1 piece
- Left Center Front Facing – 1 piece
- Underlay Piece – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
Attention! Markings on patterns are made on the right side!
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back pieces. Press the allowances open. Topstitch on both sides of the seam 0.2 cm from it. Stitch the center back seam. Press open and topstitch the allowances in the same way.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Press the allowance upwards and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Front Side to the Side Front. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked pocket opening. On the Front Side, clip the allowances at the pocket marking; press the seam towards the center and press the pocket opening allowances open.
- Topstitch the Underlay Piece to the Bigger Pocket Bag. Mark the pocket position on the front. 1–1.5 cm from each end of the pocket, make diagonal clips (on the Side Front). Turn the pocket opening allowances to the wrong side through the opening and shape the edges. Stitch the pocket bags right side down to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper in, topstitching from the right side and folding the pocket bags out of the way. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags together, catching the corners.
- Topstitch along the princess seam 0.2 cm from the seam, starting and ending the stitching at the pocket opening.
- Stitch the right Side Front to the Center Right Front. Press the allowances away from the center. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the left Side Front to the Center Left Front, inserting the separating zipper. Press the allowances away from the center. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Press the allowance onto the Front Yoke and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket and press open.
- Join the Upper Sleeve, Sleeve Inset and Lower Sleeve Inset. Press the allowances onto the insets and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seams. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve up to the slit mark. Clip the allowance of the Lower Sleeve at the mark. Press the allowance onto the Upper Sleeve and topstitch along the elbow seam 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the jacket. Sew in the shoulder pads.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edges. Notch the allowances at the corners, turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer edges.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Right and Left Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press the allowances open. Sew the lining pieces together, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Set the lining sleeves into the lining.
- Stitch the zipper to the right front edge (teeth facing away from the edge). Place the facings on the right side of the fronts, right side down, and stitch the lower front corner, along the front edge and around the neckline, inserting the Stand Collar. Clip the allowances on the curves, turn and press. Press up the hem allowances. Stitch the lining to the facings. Stitch the lower edge of the lining to the jacket hem. Press the allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeve lining to the sleeve allowances along the slit. Baste the lower edges of the sleeve and lining together 0.5 cm from the edge. Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the extension and the short end. Notch the allowances and turn the Cuff right side out. Turn the allowances inwards and press. Insert the sleeve between the edges of the Cuff and stitch. Topstitch the Cuff all around, continuing the stitching that attaches the Cuff to the sleeve.
- Topstitch around the Stand Collar.
- Topstitch an additional line along the front edge 0.5 cm from the zipper. Topstitch along the hem of the Side Front pieces and the back. Attach the snaps to the Cuffs. Attach the decorative snaps at the markings on the upper front.
