Topstitched A-Line Patch Pocket Dress
A women's above-knee A-line dress with short set-in sleeves, front and back yokes, princess seams on the bodice, a waist seam and two large patch pockets with curved, bias-bound openings. Seams are topstitched in the manner of denim.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer on its own, with sandals or trainers.
- In cooler weather over a thin top or with tights and a cardigan.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with princess seams, A-line skirt shaped by darts.
Length: Above the knee.
Neckline: Round, finished with interfaced front and back facings.
Sleeves: Short, one-piece, set-in.
Front: Centre front seam with double topstitching at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. The upper front has a yoke and princess seams; the lower front is joined at the waist and has darts.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the lower front, topstitched on with a double row at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. The curved openings on the side are bound with folded bias strips and stabilised with fusible tape.
Back: Same structure as the front: yoke, princess seams, waist seam, darts in the lower back and a centre back seam.
Closure: Concealed zipper at the top of the centre back seam.
Finishing: Princess seams and darts topstitched at 0.1 cm; yoke seams double-topstitched at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm; 2 cm hems on dress and sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many panels to match at yoke and waist seams, accurate double topstitching on denim, bias-bound pocket openings and a concealed zipper.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Concealed zipper
- Fusible interfacing (neckline facings)
- Fusible tape for the pocket openings
- Bias binding for the pocket openings (or cut it from the main fabric)
- Topstitching thread
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom and sleeve bottom — 2 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back - 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Center front - 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Lower front - 2 pieces
- Pocket — 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front neckline facing — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm. Attach the yoke to the back, press seam allowances towards the yoke and serge. Topstitch along the seam with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm.
- Stitch the darts on the lower back parts, press the dart folds towards the center. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards, serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press seam allowances towards the center and serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm. Attach the yoke to the front, press seam allowances towards the yoke and serge. Topstitch along the seam with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm.
- Fuse interfacing to the pocket opening allowance with fusible tape. Cut (or use ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the pocket opening length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Place the binding on the pocket opening, right sides together, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side, clip the seam allowances, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the darts on the lower front parts, press the dart folds towards the center. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm. Press the upper, vertical, and lower sides of the pocket to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the lower front according to the markings and topstitch with a double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards, serge.
- Stitch the center front seam, press seam allowances to the left side, serge. Topstitch along the seam with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the garment, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right side down and stitch the neckline edge. Clip the seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
