Blouse with a Fantasy Collar
A women's long-sleeved blouse with a shaped collar on a stand whose long ends run down the front and are caught into the button placket seam, a separate front placket, darts front and back, and cuffs with sleeve plackets.
When To Wear
- For the office with trousers or a pencil skirt.
- In autumn and winter under a jacket or a sleeveless pullover, with the collar worn outside.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by bust darts on the front and vertical darts on the back.
Length: To the hip, straight hem turned up twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Collar: Collar sewn into a collar stand. The collar is extended into long ends that follow a curved line from the shoulders down the front; their straight sections are stitched into the placket seam.
Front: Separate interfaced placket on each front. Buttonholes on the right front, buttons on the left.
Sleeves: Long, one-piece, set-in. Each has a slit finished with a bound underlap and a placket with a pointed top, a pleat at the lower edge and a buttoned cuff.
Back: Two pieces with a centre back seam and back darts.
Finishing: Seams overlocked and pressed towards the back; collar, stand, cuffs and plackets interfaced.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A collar on a stand with ends inserted into the placket seam, sleeve plackets with a pointed top, buttoned cuffs and buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, collar stand, cuffs, front plackets)
- 7 buttons (front and cuffs)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve placket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the back, press depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side.
- Stitch darts on the front. Press depths upwards.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Press the front placket wrong side in along the fold line. Overlock the longitudinal edges. Attach the placket to the front from the neckline to the upper mark.
- Place the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together, stitch the upper and side edges. The straight section remains unstitched. Overlock the straight section of the collar. Trim seams, clip curves, turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch into the upper collar stand attachment seam. Attach the remaining of the placket to the front, inserting the straight section of the collar into the seam.
- Slit processing: Cut the sleeve along the marked line, clipping the corner at the top of the slit. Cut a slit facing equal to the length of the slit, 2.8 cm wide. Fold the facing in half lengthwise right side out and press. Press the longitudinal sides towards the center. Stitch the sleeve slit (closer to the back) with the facing. Fold the placket in half lengthwise right side in and stitch the corner up to the transverse mark. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, clip the allowance at the end of the stitching. Turn the placket right side out, press and topstitch along the fold line from the bottom to the transverse mark at 0.1 cm. Place the placket with the sleeve right sides together and stitch the inner side along the marked line. Clip the sleeve at the end of the stitching transversely from the slit to the stitching line. Fold the placket to the right side, turn under the open edge and stitch. Align the placket with the marked line on the sleeve and topstitch the upper corner along the contour and along the transverse mark.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overlock. Form and secure the pleat at the lower edge of the sleeve.
- Place cuff pieces right sides together and stitch the side and bottom edges. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Clip allowances, trim corners. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, turn under the allowance of the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the outer cuff attachment seam.
- Turn up the hem of the garment by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left - sew on buttons. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.
