Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing, 8 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 1 piece on fold
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper front part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part - 2 pieces
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Collar - 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Form and secure the inverted pleat on the upper back piece. Along the lower edge of the upper back piece, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather.
3. Stitch the center seam of the lower back piece, press allowances to the left and overcast. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Along the lower edge of the upper front piece, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather.
5. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances upwards and overcast.
6. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
7. Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape and press.
8. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge.
9. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn front edges right side out, shape seams.
10. Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facings. Press collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seam.
11. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
12. Stitch cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Attach cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve, overcast allowances. Turn cuff to the right side.
13. Press the bottom edge to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by another 1 cm, and topstitch.
14. On the right front piece, overcast buttonholes; on the left front piece, sew on buttons.