Pencil Dress Round Collar Double Breasted

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; a concealed zipper; 8 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom and along the slit – 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts). WHEN STITCHING PARTS, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Attention! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper front part right - 1 piece
  • Upper front part left - 1 piece
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 4 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the parts with fusible interfacing. Also interface the slit allowance on the lower back part.
2. Stitch the darts on the upper and lower back parts, press the dart folds towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press the seam allowances upwards and overcast.
3. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the slit mark, press the seam allowances open. Lay a reinforcing stitch along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge. Insert the zipper.
4. Stitch the darts on the upper and lower front parts, press the dart folds towards the center.
5. Stitch the upper front parts, placing them right sides together. Press and overcast the seam allowances. Fold the front part along the front edge line right side in and stitch the upper edge from the center line to the edge of the front. Clip the neckline allowances at the center front line, turn the front edge to the right side, straighten, press.
6. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press the seam allowances upwards and overcast.
7. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
8. Fold the collar pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, trim at the corners. Turn the collars to the right side, straighten, press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
9. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front neckline facings, press the seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge of the back and front (the collar is positioned between the parts). Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure to the garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, press the seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches, press and overcast the seam allowances.
11. Overcast the hem allowance of the dress bottom and sleeve, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
12. Sew buttons on the front part according to the markings. Tip: the dress is recommended to be worn with a belt.