Blouse With Asymmetrical Front Ruffle
A women's long-sleeved blouse with an asymmetric off-centre button closure: a separate placket on the right front carries a gathered ruffle along its edge. Shirt collar on a stand, bust and back darts, sleeves with a bias-bound slit and buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear
- At the office under a jacket or on its own with straight trousers or a pencil skirt.
- For daytime events in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, straight body shaped with darts at the front and back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Shirt collar on a stand, the stand fastened with a button.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a slit bound with a 4 cm bias strip of self fabric and a pleat folded away from the slit, finished with buttoned cuffs.
Front: Right and left fronts cut separately. The right front has a separate two-piece placket running off-centre from the neckline to the hem, with a ruffle (hemmed on three edges with a double 0.5 cm turn, gathered on the inner edge) caught between the placket layers; the left front has a cut-on placket. Bust darts pressed upwards.
Closure: Buttons on the left front, buttonholes on the right-front placket.
Back: Centre back seam and vertical darts.
Finishing: Placket topstitched; hem turned up twice by 1 cm and topstitched; seam allowances overlocked.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A ruffle gathered and caught into an asymmetric placket, a collar on a stand, bias-bound sleeve slits and attached cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, stand, cuffs, placket, left-front cut-on placket)
- 9 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 2 cm; all other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Attention! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Ruche – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the collar, stand collar, cuffs and placket. Also interface the cut-on placket of the left front.
- Stitch the darts on the back, press the dart folds towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Serge the allowances and press them to the left side.
- Stitch the darts on the front. Press the dart folds upwards.
- Serge the edge of the cut-on placket of the left front. Press the placket to the wrong side along the fold line.
- Fold the top, outer and bottom edges of the ruche to the wrong side by 0.5 cm, then another 0.5 cm, and topstitch. Run a gathering stitch (loosened upper thread) along the inner edge of the ruche and gather. Place the two placket pieces right sides together, insert the ruche between them, and stitch along the front edge and the top edge. Trim the allowances at the corner, turn right side out and press.
- Stitch the outer placket to the right front. Fold under the allowance of the inner placket and stitch it over the attachment seam. Topstitch along the placket.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
- Place the upper and lower collar right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge. Trim the allowances, turn the collar right side out, straighten and press. Place the stand collar pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, match the notches and stitch, stitching the ends of the stand collar at the same time. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked neckline seam line of the stand collar. Turn right side out and press. Stitch the outer stand collar with the collar into the neckline, fold under the open edge of the inner stand collar and stitch it over the attachment seam.
- Cut the sleeve slit along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric, 4 cm wide and twice the slit length + 4 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and press, then press the raw edges towards the center fold. Bind the sleeve slit with the bias strip. Fold and secure the pleat on the sleeve, with the fold directed away from the slit.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances towards the back and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the allowances and serge.
- Fold each cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked attachment seam line of the cuff. Turn right side out and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold under the allowance of the inner side and stitch it over the attachment seam.
- Fold the hem of the garment to the wrong side by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs and stand collar.
