Flared Belted RainCoat with Notched Lapel
A women's knee-length raincoat, fitted at the waist and flared to the hem through front and back princess seams. Notched lapel collar, single-welt pockets, a back yoke laid over the back, a tie belt in loops and sleeve tabs. Fully lined, with shoulder pads.
When To Wear
- As a light coat in spring and autumn, in dry or rainy weather.
- Over dresses, skirts or trousers with a jumper; tied at the waist or worn open.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice and waist; princess seams from the armhole on the front and back open into a flared skirt.
Length: Knee length.
Collar: Notched lapel collar with upper and under collar; the lapel roll line is stabilised with a 1 cm fusible stay tape, the front edge and collar are topstitched.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and under sleeve). A buttoned tab near the hem passes through a belt loop stitched onto the sleeve.
Closure: Single-breasted button front with cut-on facings joined to a back neck facing; buttonholes on the right front.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets in the side front panels, set at an angle, with lining pocket bags.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; a faced yoke laid over the back and topstitched 0.5 cm from its lower edge.
Waist: Self-fabric tie belt, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, held by belt loops sewn over the front and back princess seams.
Finishing: Fusible interfacing on the facings, upper collar, armhole edges and pocket area; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining including sleeves, attached to the facings and to the sleeve hems; lining hem turned twice by 1 cm and stitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, a notched lapel collar with taped roll line, a two-piece sleeve with shoulder pads, a faced overlaid yoke and a full bag lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, armhole edges, pocket area, lapel stay tape)
- 5 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams – 1 cm, hem and sleeve hem allowance – 2 cm, pocket bag and welt edges – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 1 piece
- Yoke Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Decorative Tab – 2 pieces
- Waistband (belt) – 1 piece
- Belt-Loop – 1 piece (strip, cut into 10 loops after stitching)
- From lining fabric:
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar; also strips for the armhole edges, the pocket area and a 1 cm stay tape along the lapel roll line.
Attention: Front lining pieces are cut from the main fabric patterns minus the width of the Center Front Facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Note: Overlock the princess seam and side seam edges from the waist to the hem.
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar and the armhole edges of the front and back. Fuse the pocket area on the Side Front. Along the lapel roll line on the front, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape cut from fusible interfacing on the straight grain.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the Big Pocket Bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and the Big Pocket Bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front), press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch the Yoke Facing to the lower edge of the Yoke, clip the allowances. Turn the facing to the wrong side, press and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the yoke on the back and topstitch along its lower edge to attach it.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings, press allowances open.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch the outer edge and the collar ends. Clip allowances at the notch, turn the collar right side out and press.
- Overlock and press up the hem of the garment. Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge and hem strictly along the marked line. Stitching is done upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar insertion. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam: in the button area onto the facing, in the lapel area onto the front. Turn the fronts right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch the hem of the garment.
- Stitch the Lower Collar into the garment neckline, and the Upper Collar into the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Press seams open. Tack the two collar seams together. Turn the garment right side out, press.
- Overlock one long edge of the Belt-Loop strip. Fold the allowances in and topstitch (overlocked edge on top). Cut into 10 loops.
- Topstitch belt loops onto the sleeve pieces. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves. Double fold the lining hem by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem.
- Topstitch along the front edge and collar.
- Fold each Sleeve Decorative Tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the tab right side out through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold the Waistband (belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the belt right side out through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Sew the remaining belt loops at the waist over the front and back princess seams.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and on the sleeve tabs. Sew on the buttons to correspond.
