Blouse-Jacket with a Decorative Bow

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 invisible zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Bow – 2 pieces
  • Bridge – 2 pieces
  • Bow placket – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Placket – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the back princess seams. Overcast the seam allowance and press towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overcast the seam allowance and press to the left side. Attach the back yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
3. Stitch the darts on the front pieces. Press bust dart depths upwards, waist darts – towards the center.
4. Stitch the bridge into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the bridge in half lengthwise and press. Fold the bow in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the outer and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out and press. Insert the bow into the bridge, forming arbitrary pleats. Secure the pieces along the center edges. Fold the bow placket in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the bottom edge. Turn right side out and press. Place the bow placket on the front and secure along the side and center edges. Place the bow on top and secure the center edges.
5. Place the front placket on the front right sides together and stitch along the placket line. Turn the placket to the wrong side, fold under the edge of the inner placket and topstitch in the ditch of the attachment seam. Press the placket.
6. Overcast the left side seams separately. Stitch from the armhole to the zipper mark and from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper. Stitch the shoulder and right side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
7. Place the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim seams, turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch in the ditch of the upper collar stand attachment seam.
8. Place the right front on the left front and stitch the pieces, stopping 10 cm from the top.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam. Overcast the seam allowance and press towards the back.
10. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Overcast the seam allowance and press.
11. Overcast the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.