Cropped Double-Breasted Notched Lapel Jacket

Name: Cropped Double-Breasted Notched Lapel Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2680
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2680

A women's cropped jacket with a double-breasted front, wide lapels and collar, princess seams on front and back and a band at the hem. Two-piece sleeves and a full lining. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Cropped Double-Breasted Notched Lapel Jacket

A women's cropped jacket with a double-breasted front, wide lapels and collar, princess seams on front and back and a band at the hem. Two-piece sleeves and a full lining.

When To Wear

In spring and autumn over dresses and high-waisted skirts or trousers, since the jacket ends at the waist.
As the jacket of a suit, made in the same fabric as a skirt or trousers.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, cropped to the waist.

Collar: Two-piece collar with wide lapels; the under collar is set into the neckline, the upper collar into the facings and back neckline facing.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams; 3 cm sleeve hem allowance.

Front: Double-breasted, cut in centre and side parts joined by princess seams. Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm from the seam, onto the facing along the fastening and onto the front along the lapels.

Closure: A buttonhole on the right front and an inner buttonhole on the left front, with a matching inner button, plus one decorative button. Two buttons show on the hem band.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Waist: Interfaced band cut on the fold, attached to the lower edge and stitched in the ditch on the inside.

Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, attached to the front facings, back neckline facing and sleeve hems.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Collar and lapels set between the jacket and facings, two-piece sleeves, a bagged full lining and a hem band.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, collar, front facings, back neckline facing, band)
3 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Belt — 1 piece on fold
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Belt — 1 piece on fold

Note: the center back pieces are cut without considering the width of the back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
Stitch back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
Stitch front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
Stitch back neckline facing to front facings, press allowances open.
Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge and collar points. Clip allowances at the notch, turn collar right side out and press.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and bottom strictly along the marked line. Stitch upwards to the notch that defines the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the front facing seam allowance: in the button placket area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the front piece. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, smooth the seams.
Attach the lower collar to the garment neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press seams open. Secure the stitching lines of the upper and lower collars together.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves. Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Attach lining to the sleeve hem. Secure the main garment to the lining at the bottom edge.
Fold the belt lengthwise in the middle, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked belt attachment line. Attach the outer side of the belt to the garment, fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
Make a buttonhole on the right front, sew a button on the left front. Make an inner buttonhole on the left front. Accordingly, sew an inner button on the right front. Sew a decorative button.