Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 4 buttons; 1 internal button.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem – 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). ATTENTION! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Right side front – 1 piece
  • Right center front – 1 piece
  • Left center front – 1 piece
  • Left side front – 1 piece
  • Left lower front – 1 piece
  • Fly front piece – 1 piece
  • Under collar - 1 piece
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Belt – 4 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Right center front – 1 piece
  • Right side front – 1 piece
  • Left center front – 1 piece
  • Left side front – 1 piece
  • Left lower front – 1 piece
  • Fly front piece – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Right center front – 1 piece
  • Left center front – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper collar - 1 piece

ATTENTION! Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. On the front, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from fusible interfacing).
2. Fold belt pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn pieces right side out, shape, and press.
3. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances open. Stitch and press open the back princess seams.
4. Stitch darts on the center front pieces, press dart allowances upwards. Stitch and press open the right front princess seam.
5. Stitch and press open the left front princess seam. On the left lower front piece, create and secure pleats. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press seam allowances open.
6. Fold the fly front piece with the lining, right sides together, and stitch along the upper and lower edges. Clip seam allowances, turn the piece right side out, shape, and press. Place the fly front piece onto the right front and secure along the shoulder, side, and armhole edges.
7. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the upper part, inserting the tab into the left side seam.
8. Fold the upper collar with the under collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
9. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Place the front facings onto the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge, folding back the fly front piece. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seam allowances at corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the buttoning area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
10. Attach the under collar to the garment neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
11. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press seam allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap in the upper part. Attach shoulder pads.
12. On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Attach the lining to the bottom edge of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the technical opening closed.
13. Fold the seam allowances of the short side of the right belt inwards, insert the edge of the fly front piece into the belt, and topstitch, securing the pieces.
14. On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons. Sew decorative buttons on the right front. Make an internal buttonhole on the left front, sew on the internal button.