Asymmetrical Peplum Jacket
A women's collarless fitted jacket with an asymmetrical curved front fastened by one hidden button, a two-layer peplum joined at the waist, a buckled strap at the left side seam and three-quarter sleeves with turn-back cuffs.
When To Wear
- For the office with straight trousers or a pencil skirt.
- In spring and autumn over a fine top or blouse.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with princess seams front and back, flaring below the waist seam into the peplum.
Length: Hip length; the two peplum layers are hemmed separately and the lower layer shows below the upper one.
Neckline: Round collarless neckline with a deep curved front opening, finished with front facings and a back neckline facing.
Closure: Asymmetrical front, the right front lapping over the left; one hidden button on an inner buttonhole on the left front.
Sleeves: Three-quarter set-in sleeves cut in upper and lower parts with elbow and front seams, a separate raised cap section at the top of the sleeve, and shaped cuffs turned back onto the sleeve.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams in the bodice; both peplum layers cut on the fold.
Waist: Horizontal waist seam joining bodice and peplum; a strap threaded through a decorative buckle is stitched into the left side seam and folded onto the front.
Finishing: Front facings stitched in the ditch of the front princess seams; shoulder pads.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams, a curved faced front edge, a two-layer peplum, a sleeve with a separately inserted cap section and lined turn-back cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (centre front pieces, back neckline facing, cuffs, strap)
- Shoulder pads
- Decorative buckle
- 1 hidden button
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams – 1 cm, hem allowance – 1.2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back 1 – 1 piece on fold
- Lower Back 2 – 1 piece on fold
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Right Front – 2 pieces
- Center Left Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front 1 – 2 pieces
- Lower Front 2 – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Right Front – 2 pieces
- Center Left Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side, serge.
- Stitch the side seams of the upper part of the garment (Side Front to Side Back), press allowances towards the back, serge. Stitch the side seams of the peplum layers (Lower Front 1 to Lower Back 1, Lower Front 2 to Lower Back 2), press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Serge the lower edges of the peplum layers, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Lay peplum layer 1 over peplum layer 2 and baste them together along the raw edges.
- Stitch the peplum to the upper part of the garment at the waist, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Right Front and Center Left Front to the Side Fronts), press allowances towards the center, serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Serge the outer edges of the Back Neckline Facing and of the inner (second) Center Right Front and Center Left Front pieces (hereinafter, front facings). Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the front facings, press allowances open. Place the facings onto the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges, the neckline and the lower corner of the front edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim corners, turn right side out. Stitch the front facings in the ditch of the front princess seams to secure them.
- Slash the sleeve at the top along the upper edge of the sleeve cap, stopping 0.5 cm short of the seam allowance on each side. Stitch the extension of the shoulder seam on the sleeve, press allowances open, serge. Stitch the Upper Sleeve (upper cap section) to the sleeve, gradually tapering the stitching to nothing, serge. Stitch the elbow and front seams of the sleeve, press allowances and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances, serge. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Stitch each Cuff into a ring, press allowances open. Fold the cuffs right sides together and stitch the shaped edge. Clip allowances, turn the cuff right side out, press. Stitch the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve from the wrong side, press allowances, serge. Turn the cuff up onto the sleeve.
- Fold the Strap lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the long edge and one short edge. Turn the strap right side out, press. Serge the open short edge. Thread the strap through the buckle and stitch. Place the strap on the left side seam with the serged short end (buckle pointing towards the back) and stitch it on. Fold the strap over onto the front and stitch along the side seam to secure.
- Make the inner buttonhole on the left front. Sew on the hidden button to correspond.
