Straight Shawl Collar Single Button Blazer

Name: Straight Shawl Collar Single Button Blazer
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2511
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2511

A women's straight, hip-length jacket with a shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, an off-centre single-button fastening and slanted single-welt pockets. Fully lined, with two-piece sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: thin coating or suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Women's Shawl Collar Blazer

A women's straight, hip-length jacket with a shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, an off-centre single-button fastening and slanted single-welt pockets. Fully lined, with two-piece sleeves.

When To Wear

For the office with trousers or a skirt.
In spring and autumn as a lined outer layer, made up in thin coating fabric.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, with no darts or panel seams on the front.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Shawl collar cut in one with the front, joined at the centre back; the facing carries a matching collar, and the front edges, lapels, collar and hem are stitched in one pass.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams.

Closure: Off-centre overlap fastened with one button; buttonhole on the right front.

Pockets: Slanted single-welt pockets on the fronts, with lining pocket bags.

Back: Centre back seam.

Finishing: Front edge seam allowance stitched down to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam (understitching).

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, cut from the main pieces minus the facing widths and turned through an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, a cut-on shawl collar with a clipped corner at the neckline, a bagged full lining and two-piece sleeves.

Fabric Recommendations

Thin coating or suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, welts)
1 button

Cutter's Must

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Front facing – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Welt – 2 pieces

From lining fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
Large pocket bag – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Front facing – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Welt – 2 pieces

Attention! Lining pieces are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
Stitch the center seam of the one-piece collar. Attach the one-piece collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the center seam of the collar. Attach the collar to the facing neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Fold the front facing with the main garment, right sides together, pin, and stitch the front edge, lapels, collar, and bottom. Stitching is done from the front piece side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press the lower sleeve allowance to the wrong side. Stitch the front sleeve seam, press allowances towards the lower. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, press allowances.
Press the hem allowance to the wrong side. Stitch the seams on the lining, leaving an opening in the left elbow sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the back facing and front facing. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the garment. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening.
On the right front, make a buttonhole; on the left front, sew on a button.