Wrap Blazer with Buckle Belt
A women's hip-length wrap jacket with a collar stand that runs down the front edges, horizontal waist inserts at front and back, and a belt that fastens with a buckle. Fully lined, with two-piece sleeves and shoulder pads.
When To Wear
- For the office over a dress, or with trousers or a skirt and a fine top.
- In spring and autumn as a light lined jacket closed with the belt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams above the waist and by side panels.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Collar stand set into the back neckline and continuing along the wrap front edges, with an inner stand attached to the facing.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves, eased at the cap.
Closure: Wrap front closed with a belt: one end is set into the left side seam, the other, threaded through a buckle, is caught in the front edge seam. A buttonhole on the left front and a hidden button hold the underlap.
Front: Upper centre and upper side fronts joined by princess seams, a horizontal waist insert, and a lower front; side panels between front and back.
Back: Upper back with princess seams and a centre back seam, a waist insert and a one-piece lower back.
Finishing: Front edge seam allowance stitched down to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam (understitching).
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, attached to the facings and the hems; turned through an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many panel seams and inserts to match, a buckled belt caught into seams, a bagged full lining and two-piece sleeves.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (collar stand, front facings, back neck facing, belt pieces)
- Shoulder pads
- Buckle
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Upper center back – 2 pieces
- Upper side back – 2 pieces
- Back insert – 1 piece
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Side – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Upper center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Right belt – 1 piece
- Left belt – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Upper center back – 2 pieces
- Upper side back – 2 pieces
- Lining for lower back – 1 piece
- Side – 2 pieces
- Lining for lower front – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lining for upper center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention: Back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.
From fusible interlining:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Right belt – 1 piece
- Left belt – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Fold the belt pieces lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the pieces right side out, straighten, and press.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances open. Attach the insert to the back, press allowances towards the insert. Attach the lower back to the insert, press allowances towards the insert. Stitch the outer collar stand into the neckline.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances open. Attach the insert to the front, press allowances towards the insert. Attach the lower front to the insert, press allowances towards the insert.
- Attach the side to the back, press allowances towards the side. Attach the side to the front, inserting the belt into the left seam, press allowances towards the side.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the inner collar stand into the neckline facing. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Thread the buckle through the right belt. Place the front facings with the neckline facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin, and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner of the front edge, inserting the belt with the buckle. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten seams. Press the garment hem.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve and matching notches. Press the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem allowance, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap at the upper. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Attach the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- On the left front, work a buttonhole. Sew a hidden button to match.
