Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: denim fabrics made from natural or blended fibers; contrasting fabric for trim. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 4 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.5 cm.

CUTTER'S MUST

ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Lapel – 4 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From contrasting fabric:
  • Front insert – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Lapel – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
3. Attach the upper front to the side front, press allowances upwards, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
4. Attach the front insert to the front, clipping the allowance at the corner. Press allowances towards the insert, serge.
5. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
6. Fold lapel pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn lapels right side out, shape and press. Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn collar stand right side out, shape and press.
7. Place lapels onto the center front and topstitch to the neckline edge. Attach the collar stand to the neckline.
8. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Fold front facing with the main garment right sides together, pin and stitch the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and hem. Stitching is done from the front side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front facing to the wrong side, shape, and press. Secure to the main garment at the shoulder seams.
9. Serge the elbow edges of the sleeve separately. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve from the cap to the mark, clip allowances at the mark. On the section from the cap to the mark, press allowances and topstitch 0.5 cm along the seam. On the section from the mark to the hem, press allowances open and topstitch 0.1 cm along the edges. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances towards the lower part and serge. Set sleeves into armholes matching notches, press allowances and serge.
10. Fold cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn cuff right side out, shape and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances towards the cuff. Press the allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam.
11. On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.