Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 7 buttons; bias tape (approximate length indicated on the front pattern piece). IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm; allowance along the sleeve relief seam – 0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Center front - 1 piece on fold
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Front sleeve - 2 pieces
- Back sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Cuff - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Attention! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE RIGHT SIDE.
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the slit mark to the bottom. Press seams open. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit.
- Stitch the front relief seam. Serge the allowance. Press the pleat, directing the allowance towards the center front. Stitch a topstitching/reinforcing line along the pleat.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the loop. Adjust the loop length. Attach the loop to the left side of the back.
- Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings. Press allowances open. Place facing on neckline and align edges. Make a slit on the front from the neckline to the upper mark. Finish the neckline and slit. Along the slit, the allowance is 0.2 cm. Clip allowances. Turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the center front edges from the neckline to the upper mark.
- Serge the inner sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark. Press allowances open. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge. Bind the sleeve relief edges with bias tape. Place the right sleeve over the left, aligning marks at the cap and bottom. Secure the pieces. Along the bottom edge of the sleeve, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Fold the cuff right sides together and stitch the short sides and the extension. Trim allowances, turn right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the allowance of the inner cuff part inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Serge buttonholes on the cuffs and sew on buttons. Sew on buttons, securing the front and back parts of the sleeve. Sew a button to the back neckline.
