Double-breasted Shawl Collar Pleated Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 4 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for garment bottom and sleeve bottom – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Side back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Side front - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Clip the seam allowance at the corner of the back princess seam, overcast the horizontal edge. Overcast the lower edge of the side back. Fold and stitch the inverted pleats on the back pieces according to the markings. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast.
3. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline edge to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
4. Clip the seam allowance at the corner of the front princess seam, overcast the horizontal edge. Overcast the lower edge of the side front. Fold and stitch the inverted pleats on the front pieces according to the markings. Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast.
5. Stitch shoulder seams, clipping the shoulder seam allowance on the front, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch the collar seam, press seam allowances open. Attach the collar to the back neckline, press seam allowances towards the collar.
6. Stitch, clip at the corner, and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Stitch the collar seam, press seam allowances open. Attach the collar to the facing neckline, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge of the front facings and facing.
7. Place the front facings and facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch the front edges and collar edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the collar right side out, straighten seams, and press. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances together. Overlap the right front over the left, aligning the center lines, and topstitch along the front edge from the mark to the bottom.
8. Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
10. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
11. Sew buttons according to markings, securing the right and left front pieces.