Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Placket - 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Lining pieces are cut according to the upper front and back patterns, subtracting the width of the front facing and neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the back pieces. Press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press allowances open.
4. Fold the placket piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the bottom and top corners. Trim allowances, turn right side out, and press. Fold the collar in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the corners. Trim allowances, turn right side out, and press.
5. Attach the placket to the jacket front edge. Insert the collar into the jacket neckline. Press allowances towards the main piece.
6. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowance towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads. Stitch shoulder seams of the facing and front facing. Press allowances open. Attach the front facings and facing to the collar and placket. Clip allowances and press.
7. Press the hem of the sleeve and jacket to the wrong side.
8. Stitch lining seams, leaving an opening in the left sleeve. Attach lining to the front edges and neckline. Attach lining to the front facings, facing, bottom of the jacket, and sleeve.
9. Turn the jacket right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening.