Fitted Dress Coat Notched Contrast Lapel
A sophisticated women's fitted dress coat distinguished by its elegant knee-length silhouette and a chic notched contrast lapel.
When To Wear
This dress coat is designed for versatile wear, making it an ideal choice for:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for business meetings or office wear when a polished and authoritative look is desired.
- Semi-Formal Events: Perfect for brunches, garden parties, or daytime ceremonies, offering refined elegance.
- Everyday Chic: Elevates daily outfits with a touch of tailored sophistication, suitable for stylish outings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a beautifully tailored, fitted silhouette that gently flares to a knee-length hem, enhanced by princess seams on both front and back.
Neckline & Collar: Features a sophisticated notched lapel, designed for a striking contrast fabric detail, with a classic collar stand.
Closure: a single-breasted front with three visible buttons, creating a double-breasted aesthetic with an internal hidden button for secure fastening.
Sleeves: Full-length, set-in sleeves for a clean and structured arm line.
Back: Defined by a center back seam and princess seams, incorporating a functional back vent for ease of movement.
Length: a versatile knee-length hem, suitable for a range of occasions.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in tailoring, working with interfacing, setting sleeves, constructing a notched lapel, and finishing a back vent.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose dressmaking fabrics with good drape and structure, allowing for sharp tailoring:
- Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
- Contrasting or complementary fabric for the lapel and facings
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 3 buttons
- 1 hidden button
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom and sleeve bottom – 3 cm; vent allowance - 6 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back - 2 pieces
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Front bodice - 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From trim fabric:
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge. On the left back piece, along the vertical edge of the vent, trim 5 cm. On both back pieces, from the wrong side, fuse interfacing to the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left piece along the vent fold line. On the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the top edge of the vent. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Serge the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam up to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
- Stitch bust and waist darts on the front bodice. Press bust dart depths upwards, waist darts towards the center.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, clip at the mark, turn collar right side out, shape and press.
- Place the front facing and front bodice right sides together and stitch the front edge and lapel up to the mark. Clip allowances at the mark, turn pieces right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Serge outer edges.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the garment, and the upper collar to the neckline of the facing, press allowances open, secure them together. Secure the shoulder seams of the front facings to the shoulder seams of the garment.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve hem, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Serge buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on the hidden button.
