Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin coat or suit fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; 1 button. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve – 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
Attention! Lining pieces are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the center seam of the one-piece collar. Attach the one-piece collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the center seam of the collar. Attach the collar to the facing neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Fold the front facing with the main garment, right sides together, pin, and stitch the front edge, lapels, collar, and bottom. Stitching is done from the front piece side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press the lower sleeve allowance to the wrong side. Stitch the front sleeve seam, press allowances towards the lower part. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, press allowances.
- Press the hem allowance to the wrong side. Stitch the seams on the lining, leaving an opening in the left elbow sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the back facing and front facing. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the garment. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole; on the left front, sew on a button.
