Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; shoulder pads; buckle; 1 button. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back part – 2 pieces
- Upper side back part – 2 pieces
- Back insert – 1 piece
- Lower back part – 1 piece
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Upper side front part – 2 pieces
- Upper center front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Right belt – 1 piece
- Left belt – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Upper center back part – 2 pieces
- Upper side back part – 2 pieces
- Lining for lower back part – 1 piece
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Lining for lower front part – 2 pieces
- Upper side front part – 2 pieces
- Lining for upper center front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
ATTENTION: Back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.
- From fusible interlining:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Right belt – 1 piece
- Left belt – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Fold the belt pieces lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the pieces right side out, straighten, and press.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances open. Attach the insert to the back, press allowances towards the insert. Attach the lower back part to the insert, press allowances towards the insert. Stitch the outer collar stand into the neckline.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances open. Attach the insert to the front, press allowances towards the insert. Attach the lower front part to the insert, press allowances towards the insert.
- Attach the side panel to the back, press allowances towards the side panel. Attach the side panel to the front, inserting the belt into the left seam, press allowances towards the side panel.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the inner collar stand into the neckline facing. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Thread the buckle through the right belt. Place the front facings with the neckline facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin, and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner of the front edge, inserting the belt with the buckle. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten seams. Press the garment hem.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve part and matching notches. Press the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem allowance, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap at the upper part. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Attach the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- On the left front, work a buttonhole. Sew a hidden button to match.
