Midi Hooded Pleated Coat
A women's below-the-knee coat in raincoat fabric with a three-piece hood, a princess-seamed upper part joined to a lower part with inverted pleats, and a separating zip covered by a topstitched placket. In-seam side pockets.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a raincoat over dresses and knitwear.
- For everyday wear in mild, wet weather, with the hood up.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted to the waist with princess seams front and back, flared below the waist seam.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: No collar; a hood made of two side pieces and a centre panel, with a two-layer interfaced hood facing along the front edge.
Sleeves: Long, set-in, one-piece; small shoulder pads.
Closure: Separating zip along the front edge, covered by a folded, interfaced placket topstitched along its outer fold and at the top and bottom.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the side seams.
Back: Upper centre back cut on the fold with side back pieces; lower back cut on the fold.
Skirt: The lower fronts and the lower back have inverted pleats, folded and secured before they are joined to the upper part.
Finishing: Princess seams, waist seams and hood seams topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam. Front edges and back neckline finished with interfaced facings. Hem allowance 3 cm.
Lining: Unlined.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A separating zip under a placket, a three-piece hood with a turned facing, inverted pleats set into a waist seam, in-seam pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (back neckline facing, front facings, placket, hood facing)
- Separating zip, the length of the front edge
- Small shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve bottom – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Upper Center Back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Hood Facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Hood Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Back Neckline Facing, Center Front Facings, Placket and Hood Facing.
- Stitch the Upper Center Back to the Upper Side Back pieces (princess seams), press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. On the Lower Back, fold and secure the inverted pleat. Stitch the upper back to the Lower Back, press seam allowances upwards and serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Upper Center Front to the Upper Side Front pieces (princess seams), press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. On each Lower Front, fold and secure the inverted pleat. Stitch the upper front to the Lower Front, press seam allowances upwards and serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Place the fronts right sides together, align the edges and check that the front edges are the same length. Attach the separating zipper to the edge of the front (teeth facing away from the center).
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back, serge.
- Stitch the Pocket Bags to the back and front. Stitch the side seams together with the pocket bags, press seam allowances towards the front and serge.
- Stitch the Hood pieces to the Center Hood, press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Place the Hood Facings right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Turn the facing right side out, shape, press. Stitch the outer layer of the facing to the hood, press seam allowances towards the facing. Fold in the seam allowance of the inner layer and topstitch it over the attachment seam of the outer layer. Insert the hood into the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facings on the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges and back neckline. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facings to the wrong side, shape and press. Secure to the garment at the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and serge. Attach shoulder pads.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the Placket in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the corners. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer fold, and along the upper and lower edges. Serge the inner edge. Place the Placket on the front (fold pointing away from the front edge) and topstitch along the marked line. Turn the placket over, covering the zipper, and topstitch along the attachment seam.
