Peplum Jacket with Tie Belt
A women's hip-length collarless jacket with a hidden button fly front, a gathered peplum sewn over the right front and the back, and a tie belt set into the left side seam and the right placket seam. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a blouse or a fine knit.
- With slim trousers or a straight skirt for the office or a day event.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts on the fronts, with a gathered peplum below the waist.
Length: To the hip.
Neckline: Round and collarless, finished with front and back neck facings joined to the lining.
Sleeves: Set-in, one-piece, ending above the wrist.
Closure: Separate front plackets with a concealed fly opening on the right placket: a framed slot made with interfaced fly facings, buttonholes worked through the placket and facing, and bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes. Five buttons on the left placket.
Waist: A peplum, hemmed and gathered along its folded upper edge, topstitched over the right front and the back and stopping at the left side seam. The two belt halves are sewn into the left side seam and the right placket seam and tie at the front.
Back: Cut on the fold, with no centre back seam.
Lining: Full lining for the body and the sleeves, cut from the main pieces less the neck facings and sewn to the jacket and sleeve hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A concealed fly closure with a framed opening and bar tacks, a full lining bagged with the facings, and a gathered peplum set over the side seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin, soft coating fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, neck facings, fly facing)
- 5 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece with fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Peplum – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Belt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece with fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Fly facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Fly facing – 1 piece
Attention! Back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the back and front neckline facings, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the relevant pieces.
- Stitch darts on the front pieces, press seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch the right side seam, press seam allowances open.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the peplum, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Overlock the top edge of the peplum, press to the wrong side along the marked line and topstitch with a loosened upper thread, gather. Place the peplum on the right front and back of the jacket and topstitch.
- Fold the belt pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, straighten, and press.
- Stitch the left side seam, inserting the left of the belt, and the shoulder seams, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, press seam allowances.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back and front neckline facings. Stitch lining pieces similarly to main fabric pieces, press seam allowances open. Stitch facing to lining, press seam allowances towards the facing.
- Place lining and front pieces right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the garment right side out, straighten seams, and press. Stitch lining to the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the sleeve. Secure main and lining fabric along the front edge.
- Mark three lines for the button placket opening on the wrong side of the right placket: the first line is parallel to the front edge and runs 1.5 cm from the finished front edge; the second and third lines limit the length of the opening. Place the fused facing on the right side of the placket, wrong side down, moving from the fold of the front edge, aligning the edge of the facing and the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the placket opening to the lines limiting the length of the opening. Place the second placket facing flush with the stitching line of the first facing and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the placket opening. Turn the facings through the resulting opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the fused facing equal to the width between the stitches. Topstitch along the stitching line of the facing. Press the second facing towards the inner edge of the placket and topstitch 0.1 cm from the facing attachment seam. Mark and make buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the placket together with the fused facing. Straighten and secure the ends of the placket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the edges of the facings. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the width of the frame. Press the placket.
- Fold the plackets in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the top and bottom edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked placket attachment line. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn plackets right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the garment, inserting the right of the belt, fold the inner edge of the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer placket attachment.
- Sew buttons onto the left placket.
