Zipper Front Peplum Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; separable zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces and the hem allowances of the garment bottom and sleeves.
2. Stitch shoulder and waist darts on the upper back parts, press dart depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and overlock. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and overlock.
3. Stitch darts on the front, trim dart depths to 1 cm, press towards the center and overlock. Lay and secure pleats on the lower front parts. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and overlock.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
5. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Overlock the outer edge. Place front facings and facing with the garment right sides together, insert the separable zipper between the pieces and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner. Clip allowances at corners, slash at curves. Turn facings to the right side, straighten seams, and press.
6. Stitch the elbow and front sleeve seams, press allowances and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, press allowances and overlock.
7. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.