Cropped Short Sleeve Lapel Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; shoulder pads. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2.5 cm. Sleeve hem allowance – 2.5 cm.

CUTTER'S MUST

ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Under collar - 1 piece
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces

  Note: front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

• From lining fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interlining:
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce pieces with fusible interlining. Along the lapel roll line on the front pieces, apply a 1 cm wide grainline strip (from fusible interlining).
2. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the back princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
3. Stitch the front princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press allowances open.
5. Place the upper collar on the under collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press.
6. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
7. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment.
8. Attach the under collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowance towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
10. Press up the hem of the sleeve and jacket to the wrong side.
11. Stitch lining seams, leaving an opening in the left sleeve. Attach lining to front facings and back neckline facing. Attach lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve.
12. Turn the jacket right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening.