Mandarin Collar Paneled Jacket
A women's hip-length denim jacket with a stand collar, a sewn-on button placket, princess seams front and back crossed by a horizontal seam at the waist, and two-piece sleeves with buttoned cuffs. All panel seams are topstitched 0.5 cm.
When To Wear
- In spring and early autumn over T-shirts, shirts or dresses.
- With jeans, chinos or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Interfaced stand collar.
Front: Separate interfaced placket on each front, buttonholes on the right side; each front is cut in four panels (upper and lower centre, upper and lower side).
Back: Centre back panel (upper part cut on the fold) and two side back panels, each divided at the waist by a horizontal seam.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an opening at the lower end of the elbow seam, edged with topstitching 0.1 cm, finished with interfaced buttoned cuffs.
Finishing: Horizontal and princess seams pressed, overlocked and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; elbow seam topstitched 0.5 cm above the opening. The hem is finished with an interfaced bias facing strip, 4 cm wide, topstitched along its upper fold.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many panel seams with even topstitching in denim, a sewn-on placket, a stand collar, a sleeve opening in the elbow seam and a bias hem facing.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar stand, plackets, cuffs, hem facing strip)
- 7 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Upper Center Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Lower Center Back – 1 piece
- Upper Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Center Front – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Hem facing strip – 1 bias strip, 4 cm wide, length of the lower edge (cut by measurement)
- From fusible interfacing:
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Hem facing strip – 1 piece (to match the strip)
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the Upper Center Back to the Lower Center Back. Press seam allowances upwards, overlock, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the Upper Side Back to the Lower Side Back. Press seam allowances upwards, overlock, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Stitch the back princess seams. Press seam allowances towards the side edge, overlock, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
- Stitch the Upper Center Front to the Lower Center Front. Press seam allowances upwards, overlock, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the Upper Side Front to the Lower Side Front. Press seam allowances upwards, overlock, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Stitch the front princess seams. Press seam allowances towards the side edge, overlock, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fuse interfacing to the hem facing strip. Press the upper edge to the wrong side by 1 cm. Stitch the strip to the bottom edge of the garment, right sides together. Clip seam allowances, turn the strip to the wrong side, and topstitch onto the garment along the upper fold.
- Fold each Placket lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the upper and lower corners. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked placket attachment line. Turn the placket right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the front. Press seam allowances towards the placket. Press the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and stitch in the ditch of the attachment seam.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar stand insertion seam line. Clip seam allowances. Turn the collar stand right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer collar to the neckline. Press seam allowances towards the collar. Press the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and stitch in the ditch of the insertion seam.
- Overlock the elbow-seam edges of the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve separately. Stitch the elbow seam from the sleeve cap to the mark. Clip seam allowances at the mark. From the sleeve cap to the mark, press seam allowances and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. From the mark to the hem (the opening), press the seam allowances to the wrong side and topstitch along the edges at 0.1 cm. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches.
- Fold each Cuff lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the cuff right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Press seam allowances towards the cuff. Press the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and stitch in the ditch of the attachment seam.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons onto the left front. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.
