Ruffled Stand Collar Yoke Blouse

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 3 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Front yoke - 1 piece on fold
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Flounce – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
2. Cut a bias binding for the back slit, equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm, and 5 cm wide. Press the binding lengthwise in half, right side out. Mark the slit line on the back, cut it. Lay the back flat along the slit line, place the binding right side down, aligning the raw edges, and stitch. The seam allowance along the slit length is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the binding to the wrong side, encasing the seam, and topstitch into the seam.
3. Along the upper edge of the front, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the yoke to the front, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
5. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Adjust the loop length.
6. Fold the flounce piece lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Turn the piece right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch along the lower edge with a loosened upper thread and gather.
7. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and ends, inserting the flounce and loop, starting and ending the stitching precisely at the collar stand attachment line. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the collar stand right side out, straighten, and press. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
8. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Overcast sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
9. Place cuff pieces right sides together and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer cuff to the sleeve, fold under the seam allowance of the inner cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
10. Press the hem of the garment to the wrong side twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
11. Overcast buttonholes on cuffs, sew on buttons. Sew a button on the collar stand.