Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, guipure. YOU ALSO NEED: ready-made loops, a concealed zipper, decorative cord (length indicated on the front pattern piece). IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Bottom edge allowance – 1.5 cm.
CUTTER'S MUST
ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part - 1 piece
- Upper side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece
- Center front part – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- From main fabric 1:
- Center front part – 1 piece
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch darts on back pieces. Press waist dart depths towards the center of the pieces.
- Attach the lower back part to the upper. Serge allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch bust darts on the front. Press depths upwards. Cut the ready-made rouleau into the number of loops (32, 16 on each side). Attach loops to the side front parts. The tops of the loops are directed away from the edge.
- Place the guipure center part onto the main part and secure along the relief edges. Attach the center front part to the side parts. Serge allowances and press towards the side seam.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Serge allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings. Serge allowances. Fold facing pieces right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn facings right side out, straighten, press. Stitch the outer facing to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner stand and topstitch into the stitching seam.
- Cut (if not ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Fold the binding with the armhole edge right side together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Serge left side edges separately. Stitch the left edge from the armhole to the zipper mark and from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Serge the bottom edge of the product, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Thread the decorative cord through the loops.
