Structured Darted V-Neck Blazer

Name: Structured Darted V-Neck Blazer
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2254
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2254

A short, fitted, collarless women's jacket with a V-neck, a single-button front, princess seams front and back, and three horizontal darts on each front at the waist beside the button. Fully lined, with two-piece sleeves and shoulder pads. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Structured Darted Blazer

When To Wear

Over a dress or with a high-waisted skirt or trousers for the office.
As the jacket of a two-piece suit in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams from the armhole on the front and back.

Length: Short, ending at the high hip.

Neckline: Collarless V-neck, finished with interfaced front facings and a back neck facing; the back neckline is stabilised with fusible stay tape.

Front: Centre front panels with a shoulder dart topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam and three horizontal darts, pressed down, at the waist next to the front edge; the front edge seam is understitched 0.2 cm onto the facing.

Closure: One button at the waist, buttonhole on the right front.

Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, the upper sleeve eased into the elbow seam and the cap eased into the armhole.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and a shoulder dart on each centre back panel, topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam.

Finishing: Hem and sleeve hem allowances of 3.5 cm, interfaced; shoulder pads.

Lining: Full lining cut from the same panels minus the facings, machine-stitched to the hems and turned through an opening in the left sleeve lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, horizontal darts in a fitted front, a two-piece sleeve and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, hem allowances)
Fusible stay tape for the back neckline
Shoulder pads
1 button

Cutter's Must

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Note: the center back and center front pieces from lining fabric are cut deducting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing respectively.

Sewing Instructions

Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. Apply an additional fusible stay tape along the back neckline. Interface the allowances of the garment hem and sleeve hem.
Stitch the dart on the center back. Press the dart depth towards the center, topstitch at 0.1 cm from the seam. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
Stitch the dart from the shoulder seam on the center front. Press the dart depth towards the center, topstitch at 0.1 cm from the seam. Fold the center front piece wrong sides together and stitch the horizontal darts, press the depths downwards. Stitch and press open the front princess seam.
Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Place the front facings with the garment and stitch the front edges and neckline in one seam. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves, turn the garment right side out, press. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Press up the garment hem.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve and matching notches. Press up the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem allowance, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
Set in the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing.
Attach the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
On the right front, make a buttonhole, on the left front, sew on a button.