Structured Stand Collar Jacket

Name: Structured Stand Collar Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2248
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2248

A fitted women's hip-length jacket with an edge-to-edge front, a stand collar that starts back from the front edge, princess seams and two decorative zips topstitched onto the front princess seams. Two-piece sleeves with turned-back cuffs, full lining. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Structured Stand Collar Jacket

When To Wear

Over a blouse or fine knit with trousers or a skirt for office wear.
Spring and autumn, worn open as a lined jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close fitting, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.

Length: Hip length with a straight hem.

Collar: Two-layer stand collar, interfaced, set between the jacket and the facing; the front neckline is topstitched up to the stand.

Front: Edge-to-edge, with no fastening; front edges topstitched 0.5–0.7 cm from the edge.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap, shorter than wrist length, finished with a folded cuff turned back onto the sleeve; shoulder pads.

Pockets: None; the vertical zips on the front princess seams are decorative.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Lining: Full lining cut from the main pieces minus the back neck facing, bagged through an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam; the lining finishes the jacket hem and the inside of the cuff.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, a stand collar set between jacket and facing, two-piece sleeves, a bagged full lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (collar stand, front facings, back neck facing, cuffs)
2 decorative zips
Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar stand — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
Lining fabric pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the back neckline facing.
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand — 1 piece
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff — 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Topstitch the zipper onto the front princess seam.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the collar stand right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar stand to the neckline.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Place the front facings right sides together with the garment and stitch the front edges, the neckline edge (the collar stand is placed between the facing and the main garment), and the lower corner of the front edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the pieces right side out. Topstitch along the front edge and the front neckline section up to the collar stand at 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the upper. Attach shoulder pads.
Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Press the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances towards the cuff.
Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the lining to the facings. Turn the garment right side out, smooth out the seams.
Mark and press up the garment hem. Finish the garment hem and the inner side of the cuff with the lining. Stitch the technical opening closed. Turn the cuff onto the sleeve.