Denim Pants with Button Closure
High-waisted women's denim trousers without a waistband, flared from the knee, with a front panel that buttons onto fly extensions along two vertical seams, three buttons on each side. Double topstitching throughout.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear with a tucked-in shirt or a short knit, so the button front shows.
- Autumn and spring with flat boots or heeled shoes under the flared hem.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the waist and hips, flaring from the knee to the hem.
Waist: High waist finished on the inside with interfaced facings (central front, side fronts, back), double topstitched along the top edge.
Closure: The central front part, cut in two halves with a centre front seam and a self facing, overlaps the side fronts; buttonholes on the central part, six shank buttons on two interfaced fly extensions.
Legs: Contoured seams run from the closure down to the hem, double topstitched; side seams double topstitched.
Pockets: Front pockets opening along the top edge of the side front, with a separate side piece and lining pocket bags; two topstitched patch pockets with a pointed base on the back.
Back: Waist darts, centre back seam sewn with a double stitch.
Finishing: 5 cm hem, double topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A buttoned front panel with fly extensions and facings, front pockets, even double topstitching on denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (waist facings, fly extensions, self facings of the central fronts)
- 6 shank buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm, hem allowance 5 cm, upper allowance of back pocket – 3 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Center Front Half – 2 pieces
- Side Front Half – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Back Half – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 1 piece
- Front Side Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Facing – 1 piece
- Button Catch (fly extension) – 2 pieces
- Back Pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 1 piece
- Front Side Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Facing – 1 piece
- Button Catch (fly extension) – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Front Side Facing, Back Facing and Button Catch pieces, and to the grown-on facings of the Center Front Half pieces.
- Stitch the darts on the Back Half pieces, press them towards the center.
- Press the upper allowance of each Back Pocket to the wrong side, turn the raw edge under and topstitch. Overlock the remaining pocket edges and press the allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the Back Half according to the markings and topstitch.
- Place the Pocket Bag on the Side Front Half right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Turn the Pocket Bag to the wrong side, roll the seam slightly and press. Double topstitch along the upper edge. Place the Side Front Half on the Side, stitch the lower edges of the pocket bags together and overlock. Baste the pieces together along the side and contoured edges.
- Overlock the contoured edges of the Center Front Half and Side Front Half. Stitch the contoured seam from the closure down to the hem. Press the allowances towards the center and double topstitch along the seam. Press the grown-on closure allowance of the Center Front Half to the wrong side. Overlock the Button Catch all around. Press the Button Catch in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Place the Button Catch on the Side Front Half along the closure section and stitch its outer layer; press the allowances towards the Button Catch.
- Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock. Double topstitch along the seam. Stitch the inseams, press the allowances and overlock. Stitch the crotch seam of the front and back halves with a double stitch, press the allowances open and overlock.
- Overlock the lower edge of the Center Front Facing. Fold the grown-on closure allowances of the center front to the right side and stitch the short ends of the Center Front Facing to them; press the allowances open. Stitch along the upper edge of the center front part. Turn the closure facings and the Center Front Facing to the wrong side, roll the seam and press. Stitch the Front Side Facing pieces to the Back Facing, press the allowances open and overlock the lower edge. Place this facing on the upper edge of the trousers right sides together. Fold the Button Catch pieces to the right side and stitch the short ends of the facing to them. Stitch along the upper edge, catching the upper corners of the Button Catch pieces; trim the allowances at the corners, turn the facing to the inside and press. Double topstitch along the upper edge. Double topstitch along the edge of the center front closure. Stitch the long allowance of the inner layer of the Button Catch into the attaching seam. Lap the center front part over the Button Catch, matching the finished closure lines, and stitch the center front part to the Button Catch with a double topstitch.
- Overlock the hem allowance, press it to the wrong side and stitch with a double topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the center front part of the trousers and sew the buttons onto the Button Catch pieces.
