Stand Collar Flap Pocket Drawstring Jacket
A hip-length women's jacket with a straight body, a stand collar, a separate buttoned front placket and a drawstring casing at the hem. Two flap pockets on the fronts; body and sleeves are lined.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and early autumn, over T-shirts, shirts and fine knitwear.
- With jeans, chinos or straight trousers for everyday wear and weekends outdoors.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, loose body drawn in at the hem by the drawstring.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar with a rounded upper edge.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a one-piece cuff folded in half lengthwise.
Front: Separate front placket topstitched 0.2–0.5 cm from the outer edge, fastened with four buttons.
Pockets: Slit pockets with a rectangular flap set into the upper edge of the opening and lining pocket bags; each flap buttons down onto the front.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with no seams.
Waist: A lower band at the hem forms a casing with the lining; the cord exits through eyelets on the front.
Lining: Back, fronts and sleeves lined; the lining is secured to the sleeve hem allowance.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Flap pockets cut into the front with two pocket bags, a separate placket, a lined body, a stand collar and eyelets for the drawstring.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven jacket fabrics with some body: cotton twill, gabardine, canvas, linen and cotton blends.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, stand collar, flaps, front plackets, cuffs)
- Buttons for the front placket and pocket flaps (six on the drawing: four on the placket, one on each flap)
- Eyelets for the drawstring
- Drawstring cord
- Cord stoppers and cord ends
Cutter's Must
The lining Back, Front and Sleeve are cut from the main fabric pattern pieces, minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Center Front Placket – 2 pieces
- Lower Placket – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Center Front Placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances, turn the flap right side out, and press. Topstitch along the side and bottom edges 0.2–0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the flap to the Front along the upper pocket marking line (the finished edge facing the neckline). Stitch the Big Pocket Bag to the Front along the upper pocket marking line. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag to the Front along the lower pocket marking line. End the stitching at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts toward the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the flap and pocket bags to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends on the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Stitch the pocket bag edges together.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press seam allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Press seam allowances.
- Install the eyelets on the Lower Placket. Place the Lower Placket on the Front and Back, right sides together, and stitch along the bottom edge. Fold the placket to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch the shoulder edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces.
- Stitch the lining to the facings. Stitch the bottom edge of the lining to the upper edge of the Lower Placket. Topstitch from the right side to form the drawstring casing. Secure the lining to the sleeve hem allowance. Turn the garment right side out through the front edge. Baste the outer garment and the facings together along the neckline and front edges, then treat them as one piece.
- Fold the Center Front Placket lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the bottom edge, starting and ending exactly at the marked placket attachment line. Trim the seam allowances at the corner, turn right side out, and press. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the Front and press the seam allowance toward the placket. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side under by 1 cm and topstitch it over the attachment seam. Topstitch along the outer edge of the placket 0.2–0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn right side out, and press. Stitch the outer side of the collar to the neckline and press the seam allowance toward the collar. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side under by 1 cm and topstitch it over the attachment seam.
- Stitch the Cuff into a ring and press the seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve and press the seam allowance toward the cuff. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side under by 1 cm and topstitch it over the attachment seam.
- Thread the drawstring through the casing and finish it with cord stoppers and cord ends.
- Make buttonholes on the placket and sew on the buttons. Make buttonholes on the flaps and sew the buttons onto the Front beneath them.
