CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Under collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
ATTENTION! Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar - 1 piece
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. On the front piece, along the lapel roll line, apply a grainline stay tape 1 cm wide (from fusible interfacing).
- Stitch the waist darts on the back pieces, press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the bust darts on the front pieces, trim the allowances to 1 cm, press towards the center.
- Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances open.
- Fold the welt pocket flap piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along one short side. Trim the allowances at the corner, turn the piece right side out, and press. Place the welt pocket flap on the front piece along the lower marking line (fold facing down) and stitch. Fold the welt pocket flap upwards, press, and topstitch the side onto the front piece.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim the seams at the corners, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams at the corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the button placket area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
- Stitch the under collar into the jacket neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press the allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- On the right front piece, make buttonholes; on the left front piece, sew on buttons.
