Sleeveless Coat Dress with Notched Lapels
A sleeveless women's dress to the knee, with a notched collar, a single-breasted button front and princess seams front and back that flare out to the hem. Armholes are finished with bias binding.
When To Wear
- In summer on its own, for work or daytime outings.
- In cooler weather over a fine-knit top or blouse, or under a cardigan.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bust and waist by princess seams from the armhole, then flared to the hem.
Length: To the knee.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels, set between the dress and the facings.
Closure: Single-breasted, six buttons from below the lapels to the hip; buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes bound with a 4 cm bias strip folded in half, turned to the inside and topstitched along the fold.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; front edge understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; hem turned and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar with facings, princess seams and a bias-bound armhole.
Fabric Recommendations
Light to medium-weight woven fabrics with some body, such as cotton poplin, chambray, linen or linen blends.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, back neck facing)
- Bias binding or a bias strip 4 cm wide
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to one Collar piece, the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock. Stitch the center back seam, press the seam allowances to the left and overlock.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front), press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings and press them open. Overlock the outer edge.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the Center Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, upwards to the notch marking the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seam allowances at the corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: onto the Center Front Facing along the button closure, and onto the Center Front along the lapels. Turn the front edges right side out and shape the seams.
- Stitch the under collar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Clip the collar seam allowances, press them open and secure them to each other close to the seams.
- Cut (if not using ready-made binding) a bias strip 4 cm wide and as long as the armhole + 6 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Place it on the right side of the armhole, raw edges matching, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side, clip the seam allowances and topstitch along the fold onto the dress. Press the seam.
- Overlock the lower edge of the dress, press it to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front.
