CUTTER'S MUST
From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Right front – 1 piece
- Left front – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Left collar – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
Attention! Back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the back neckline facing and front facing respectively.
From fusible interfacing:
- Right front – 1 piece
- Left front – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Left collar – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Trim corners, turn the welt right side out, straighten, and press. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Mark the pocket placement. Mark a line on the welt defining the finished width of the welt. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the underlap to the large pocket bag. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket lining to the wrong side. Press seam allowances flat. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. Topstitch the short sides of the welt to the front.
- Stitch the upper sleeve seams, press allowances open. Stitch the lower sleeve seams simultaneously with the side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the collar to the facing neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the lower corner, front edge, and collar. Clip allowances at curves, trim corners. Turn the facings to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Press the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances towards the cuff.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Press allowances. Stitch the lining to the facings and neckline facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams. Secure the collar attachment allowances together. Through the technological opening, stitch the lining to the bottom of the garment and stitch the lining to the inner side of the cuff. Stitch the technological opening closed.
- Topstitch along the front edges and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Make a buttonhole on the front. Sew on the button.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch around the perimeter, leaving an opening for turning. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out, straighten, press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
